Jakarta - The Contrasts

Are Severe
We stayed in a western hotel - thus the armed guards and bomb checks. It was situated on a wide boulevard that housed many foreign banks and embassies. In other words, it was a nice area. Everything was guarded - not one driveway could be entered without a bomb-check or a once over from security. The Japanese embassy looked like a jail, its grey outer wall was fringed with razor wire of the same color.

Get Out the Sliderule...

You Gotta Drop 4 Zeroes, Essentially
It's strange when your dinner costs 200,000 (which converts to about $20.) Takes a bit of getting used to. They sure seem to like hats in this country.

This is the "Green" Center of the City?

Merdeka Square
This park measures one square kilometer and features a 433 foot tall monument erected during Sukarno's presidency. It's topped with a flame coated by 35 kilos of gold to signify the "people's determination for freedom." A pamphlet from my hotel describes it as "inspired tastelessness."

On The World Cities Scale...

Jakarta's Like an Upscale Bombay
Let us compare and contrast. Men with machine guns guarding your hotel entrance? Check. A sweep of your taxi and search of the taxi undercarriage for bombs prior to entry to the hotel parking lot? Check. Baggage scanning machines to get into the hotel? The mall? Check and check.

The Eagle Has Landed

In Jakarta...
It's only an hour flight from Singapore but it's a different world. Looks similar when you land: palm trees, greenery, broad recently-built highways. As you make your way towards downtown, though, the likenesses fade. All the would-be colors come to you through a prism of brown smog, dulling them. The sun is presumably up there somewhere but you cannot be sure. We passed scores of shanty towns and a muddy flowless river. The building boom is in full swing here but strangely, the buildings - even those not yet completed - already look old. It's as if the 70's are back in vogue.

This is a shot from our hotel room in downtown Jakarta. The traffic is loud and unending, the sound of traffic police whistles can be heard even up here on the 16th floor. Pingles has gone to her meetings. I am off to walk around.

No Letting Up

That's for the West
I cannot see any sign of slowdown here in the Singapore boom. They must have taken all the unused cranes from Dubai and shipped em over here. This is the mega mall being put up across from Pingle's house, it was a hole the last time I was here and now the skeleton is up already. Should be done in no time soon. Everywhere you turn there are cranes and buildings going up.

Fruit

They Take All the Hard Work Out of It
All the fruit you could ever want, cut up, packaged and cooling inside a large cooler. I know what some of them are, but not all of them. Do you?

This is Why They Call it the Rainy Season

Good For Napping
It's rainy season here which means it's either sunny or pouring - nothing in between. This is a video shot from Pingle's room looking out into the parking lot. There was some serious thunder and lightning to go along with it. We've rented a bunch of DVDs and are watching them, with the window open so the cool breeze can blow in.

Girl's Night Out

It's a X-Mas Tradition
Every Christmas eve, Pingles and her girlfriends go out for dinner. It's a fancy, girls-only, dress to impress event and someone was ready...

Snowboard Suicide

She Has No Idea What She's Getting Into
While Pingles was planning this trip, I asked if we could ski or snowboard in Karuizawa. She looked into it and set it up, even though neither she nor any of her colleagues had ever skied before. I told her to make sure everyone get lessons as part of the package. When we arrived, there were no lessons available. I felt my stomach tighten - I was worried someone was going to get hurt. I had no idea that the person I had to worry most about was Pingles, herself.

An Epic Dinner

Ten Courses, To Be Exact
In Japan you can eat a ten course meal and not be full at the end. I learned this our first night when we sat for a fancy, long, traditional Japanese meal. Most were dressed in their onsen wear.

Onsen Accoutrements

Old-School Fashion
Each of us was supplied with all kinds of onsen formal wear. We got a baggy, pajama-like pair of pants and matching tunic and a woolen shawl. But these were not the coolest things, in my opinion.

Check In at the Onsen

For Some R and R
Karuizawa is a destination for Tokyoites, a place out in the country with fresh air. In the winter you can come skiing, which we planned to do but the main focus was soaking in the hot springs, otherwise known as onsen. The grounds were very nice - wooden cottages arranged around small ponds. Nothing about it looked swanky until we entered the main hall.

On the Move....

Inland, Towards Snowier Climes
On Monday morning we headed inland from Tokyo about 3 hrs drive and a few thousand feet up. Our destination was a small town called Karuizawa, near Nagano - which once hosted the winter olympics. We took a small bus and were accompanied by a tour guide named Patrick who was originally from Hong Kong but had been living in Tokyo for some time. He regaled us with many interesting stories about Japanese culture but did so in Cantonese, unfortunately. Pingles translated from time to time. In the photo below, the A is Karuizawa and if you click on the picture you can see Tokyo diagonally down and to the right, on the coast.

Meeting the Big Boss

The One Who Funded My Trip
The Japan trip is a "team-building" exercise for Pingles and her colleagues from Hong Kong and Singapore. Her boss was along as well and she kept telling me "you're gonna meet my boss" which sounded like "be very afraid" to me, for some reason. During our first breakfast in the hotel lobby he was sitting at a nearby table. Pingles said "hey, my boss is here, wanna meet him?" I glanced over - he looked just like the Chinese actor John Lone, pictured below. We chatted cordially for a few minutes about our dinner the following night. I said something like "we'll have some drinks" to which he replied "yes, we'll find out about this tomorrow." It was a strange reply and I couldn't help but...

Tokyo Addresses

And Now It Really Gets Confusing...
Believe it or not, most streets in Tokyo are not named. How the hell do you find anything then? Tokyo is made up of 23 wards, which I think of as neighborhoods. Each ward is then broken down into districts and the districts are further divided into chome. If you're lucky enough to have an address for a place, it looks something like this: 1-22-14 Jinan, Shibuya. It reads from right to left, getting more specific as it goes. Shibuya is one of the 23 Tokyo neighborhoods, Jinan is a district in Shibuya. The chome are numbered - in this example we are looking for chome 1. Now it gets totally confusing - the 22 represents the block and 14 represents the building. Problem is, the numbers aren't sequential - they're numbered in the order of their construction. So, forget getting an address, going to Google maps and finding it.

What most places do is advertise where they are on the map in relation to the nearest subway stop. In the photo above, the rail line is shown as is the station - it has the initials JR on it, which represent the name of the line. Then there is a star or arrow showing where the place is in reference to the subway. Everyone employs this map tactic - restaurants, shops, government buildings. Without the metro as the guiding point, I don't know how you'd ever find anything. I would imagine there is a steep learning curve for the mailmen!

Japanese Script

It's a Doozy!
Until the 5th century BC, Japan had no written language. Around 550 they started to use Chinese Kanji symbols to represent spoken Japanese. Here are some examples of Chinese Kanji - which are ideograms: each symbol has its own meaning and can create more words when combined with other symbols. There are close to 40,000 symbols but if you learn around 3,000 of them you can read a newspaper.

Shimokitazawa

Deja Vu?
I wanted to go somewhere new in Tokyo other than the usual so I did some internet research on cool neighborhoods in Tokyo and up popped one called Shimokitazawa. We jumped on a train early Sunday morning and no sooner had the train pulled in when Pingles realized she'd brought me here already in 2008. This was the site of one of our early infamous dates where we played pool and I dazzled her with my billiard skills, crushing her five to zero. Fast forward to now, when we realized there is not much to do here on a Sunday morning - most things were still closed.

The Masks

It Ain't What I Thought it Was
As an American I saw all the people wearing masks and thought "what do they know that I don't?" I thought maybe the air was bad here or there was some outbreak or other to be wary of. Of course, I had it all wrong. It's not that at all.

The Beauty

And the Suffering
Paris and Tokyo are both fashion-plate capitals. You would never see a woman on the streets without makeup and high-heeled boots in either place. Tokyo, from my point of view, is just that much more obsessed with beauty. Case in point - the almost universal use of fake eyelashes. You can buy them in the store and put them on yourself or, better yet, you can go to a shop and have them professionally glued on so they last 30 days. I became quite obsessed with eyelashes - they are impossibly long and curved - I kept trying to see if I could discern the fake from the real. Something tells me they're like fake tits - if they're done well you won't know.

It gets even stranger - you can buy a special glue that you paste on your eyelids at night to wake up to a "second crease" that makes your eyes look bigger. Asian women don't have a second eyelid crease and glue-makers must be looking for new markets. Pingles was a sport and tried it out - but it only made a small, unfinished second crease on one of her eyes. I'd post that photo - but she threatened me with physical voilence....

Lastly, women in Tokyo wear the highest high heels and the shortest mini-skirts I've ever seen - and in much colder temperatures than their Parisian counterparts. There is nothing about the female Tokyo outfit that says "comfortable" to me. I wonder what they look like without their makeup and fancy gear on.

Shibuya

Shopping Epicenter
Shibuya is dead-center of the shopping target. It's got small shops, large department stores and billboards galore.

An Afternoon in Kichijoji

Tokyo "Suburbia"
I'm not so sure I should call Kichijoji a suburb. Yes, it has a lot less of the hustle and bustle of central Tokyo but the houses are no less packed together. There is something different about this neighborhood, however. It's a 20 minute subway ride away from downtown and is a shopping destination. There are some areas of the town that have shops and restaurants - small shops lining narrow lanes - but only a block or so away from the train station are some lovely, quiet streets. We walked down a few just to get a measure of the place. It was an early Sunday afternoon and the crowds had not yet arrived. Older folks were out walking or riding their bikes. It was a chilly, sunny day - about 45 degrees.

Ranking Stuff

It's the Quirkiness...
I've been to Tokyo two times now and I don't understand it any better. Matter of fact, it's the quirkiness of the place and the attendant state of confusion I find myself in here that draws my interest. Case in point: a store in which everything is ranked. Just your typical convenience store, except they rank things best, 2nd best, 3rd best, etc. So, for example, you can find three or four types of garlic potato chips - ranked from 1 to 4, using some imaginary and I suspect, meaningless ranking system.

They Love the French

One of the Influences
When you spend enough time in Tokyo you see two major influences: America and France. You see it in the restaurants and shops - non-Japanese food and goods are usually either from the US or France. One particular annoying habit that still has a strong hold here is smoking during meals. Not to say that France invented it - I just see the Japanese as having borrowed this habit from the French. They smoke indoors here, still, something that I hope changes soon....

Shinjuku

Means "New Town" in Japanese
Our hotel was in a neighborhood called Shinjuku. It was known for being the red light district back in the 70's but none of that remains. It was all knocked down, plowed over and replaced with skyscrapers. This is one of only two hoods with tall buildings, the other being downtown. I liked the way this one was shaped, the way it bulges in the middle, seemingly straining the criss-crossing supports.

File this One Under...

Only in Tokyo
We were walking in Shibuya and saw this sign out on the street. It's a cafe with a cat motif.

Bombarded by Stimuli

It Can be Overwhelming
Tokyo is an assault on the senses. It's very crowded, with narrow, winding streets, crowds of people bumping and jostling you, telephone wires crossing overhead, sounds and smells. Don't get me wrong, it's not like Mumbai. It's not hostile or disgusting or jarring. Nevertheless, you feel it. This is a Sunday morning, early - this is as quiet and empty and peaceful as it can get, unless....

Harajuku

Fashion Central
Harajuku means "old town" in Japanese, but it's known for being the center of Tokyo street fashion. It looks like any other Tokyo neighborhood: buildings chock-a-block, telephone wires dangling overhead, narrow streets and alleyways.

Waiting....

It's a Time-Honored Tradition
There are close to 20 million people living in Tokyo. As you might imagine, it requires some patience to live in a city of 20 million. I've noticed that folks here don't mind waiting for things, which makes sense. There are queues everywhere. These people are waiting to park their bikes in the municipal bike parking lot. They'll eventually park their bikes then board a train.

Learning the Necessities

It Really Doesn't Take Much
As I've learned in Paris, the most important things to learn when you go somewhere new are words related to greeting and eating. I mainly rely on the Pingles here, but I've picked up a few things such as:

Konichiwa - Hello.
Sayonara - Bye.
Watashi wa - I am (insert your name.)
Eigo menu kudasai - English menu, please. (sometimes they have one, sometimes they don't)
Kore wa hitotset - One of these (as you point to something you want to eat.)
Oishi des ne? - Delicious, isn't it? (Usually, this is what Pingles is asking me while we eat.)
Oishi! - Delicious! (Usually my reply.)
Arigato gozaimas - Thank you very much. (What every store keeper says to you on the way out.)
Kawaii - cute.


Cake-oh - cake
Receipt - oh - receipt
Hot-oh - hot

My King....

Your Thrown Awaits You
Some themes that hit you as you spend time in Tokyo are the obsessions with cleanliness and automation. Never are those two clearer than when you use a restroom. I visited this one in a donut shop this morning. As soon as I walked up to the toilet, the seat lid opened automatically. But that was just the beginning...

Hit the Ground Running

Tokyo - Day One
My flight out of Paris was delayed due to snow so I landed a few hours late. Pingle was waiting for me with a hand made sign with my name on it, like she was a taxi driver. We didn't arrive at our hotel until 9pm. But that didn't stop us - we just had to squeeze in a few meals quickly. We jumped on the metro a few stops to Shinjuku to eat some Gyoza, which are a form of Japanese dumplings. After that, we walked to Shibuya for some ramen. Pingles was all smiles, she loves Japan. This is a shot inside the ramen shop. Check out the details here.

The Kid Does it Again....

Somehow......

I've been dreading my Paris to Tokyo flight. Twelve plus hours in a middle seat. I called ANA last week to beg to be moved to an aisle seat. Their advice, get to the airport 3 hrs early and "if you're lucky, something will have opened up." Three hours early? That would be a personal record. This morning, I wake up to find out there is a transit strike on the train that goes to the airport AND it's the year's first snowfall - about an inch. The gods are conspiring against me! I take drastic measures - I leave the office at 2:45pm for a 7:45pm flight via taxi. NOTHING is gonna stop me!

I arrive at the airport around 3:30pm and study the empty, roped-off check-in counter. I study an ANA placard showing exactly where the ropes open up for economy class check in and I plop myself there. After an hr, as they open up, there are already 20-30 people behind me. I approach with a warm smile and ask politely "are there any aisle seat available?" "I will check Monsieur." Her face gives nothing away as she types. Not looking good, I think to myself. She then hands over a business class boarding pass. "Monsieur, I'm afraid I cannot get you an aisle seat but you will be very comfortable in business class, n'est-ce-pas?" I nearly jump in the air and feel the desire to high-five her repeatedly.

- Posted from the Charles de Gaulle airport.

View from.....

....the Bus Stop
Every morning I put on my Eurotrash outfit, leave my apartment and wait for the bus. This is my view down rue Reaumur. Nothing special, I didn't think. But take a close look at the building in the background. Do you see the giant sculpture on it?

Back in the Good Old Days....

The Penalties Were a Bit Tougher...
No need for a history lesson on the guillotine - you know what it is and what it was used for. Here in Paris, once in a while, the powers that be would set one up outside of a prison and "take care" of some prisoners. As with most technology, little adjustments were made over time to improve functionality. Turns out, the guillotine didn't work well if it weren't perfectly level. If one leg were higher or lower than the other, the blade would get stuck on the way down towards a neck. So, someone came up with the idea of planting five large flat, perfectly level stones into the ground. They'd then always set the guillotine onto those stones to guarantee a level "playing field."

A Day of Superlatives

It Ain't What You Might Expect
First up, the narrowest house in Paris - 39 rue du Chateau d'Eau. This place is a 10 minute walk north of my apartment. It's that one door with the single window above it in the middle of the picture. It's just 3.5 feet wide. The history of this "house" is interesting - it was built to block the small alley that used to lead back to the street behind it. Why? The kids who inherited the adjoining property, including the alley, couldn't agree on how to split up their inheritance so the eldest built a house on it and ended the "discussion."

On The Move...

Another Day of Bus-Riding and Exploring
Pingles left for Singapore yesterday. When I woke up today I was kinda confused. No more partner in crime to hang with. I sat around the house moping a bit and decided to go out and explore. First up, a tight, winding, uphill, typically Parisian outdoor market in the 5th. Though I didn't buy anything, I really enjoyed window shopping.

One Week and Counting....

Let the Fun Begin...
This is a photo of my golf bag, which has both my golf clubs and my winter gear packed into it. I got a nice 2-week hot-cold Asian vacation lined up. First up, 5 days in Japan - 2 in Tokyo and 3 in a small town north of Tokyo a few hrs. We'll spend at least one day snowboarding and the other two? Dunno. Pingles? After that, down to Singapore where I'll work on the golf game daily. Woo hoo!! Hope to get over to Malaysia to play a round and I'll try another round of "night golf" in downtown Singapore.

We're also gonna drop over to Jakarta for 2 days where I will be a photo-taking, food-eating tourist. Pingles has a meeting there.

Busing Ourselves to the 7th

At Least, Trying To...
So, in the middle of a strong rainstorm, our bus stopped half-way to our destination and the driver announced "this is the end of the ride." Nothing is easy here. No explanation, no idea why, we simply had to step out into the cover of a bus shelter and wait for the rain to subside.

Prepping for the Next Trip...

Taking Advantage...
Finally my girlfriend is coming through with some free stuff from her job. For such a big-shot, she sure doesn't spread the perqs... Until now, that is. We're going on an all expenses paid trip to Japan with her company from Dec 18th to Dec 23rd. We'll spend a few days in Tokyo and then a few more days near Nagano, one of which will be filled with snowboarding. She has already got her cool-girl snowboarding gear together, as you can see.

From there, we'll go to Singapore for the holidays and also take a side trip to Jakarta for a few days - she has a meeting to attend there.

Thursday Market

Bastille
There is a market that sets up every Thursday near work. That's the Place de La Bastille in the background.

Riding the Doubledecker...

Meet the Airbus A380
When we arrived at JFK to fly back to Paris we were a bit surprised to hear the flight was sold out. It's a Tue night, for goodness sake! Turns out everyone was there to get a ride on one of the new Airbus A380's that Air France has recently started using. It is a ridiculously large aircraft, a double-decker from end to end that seats from 550-800 people, depending upon the mix of business and coach seats. Pingles sat downstairs and I sat upstairs. I hate to be negative, but lame Air France got these beautiful new planes and loaded them with the same crappy 1990's seats from their regular fleet. And, as is usual with Air France, we took off late, landed late and didn't get all our luggage for 1 1/2 hrs after landing.

New planes, same crappy company, same crappy service. Vive la usual. I did learn, however, that you can fly from NY to Paris in 6 hrs, 2 hrs faster than normal. I think they sped up due to our late departure. Pingles tells me they usually fly at a slower clip because that's the optimal fuel-burning speed.