We drove the steep hills above Bagni di Lucca and parked outside the "Terme" not sure what to expect. Once inside we were led underground two flights to a tiled antechamber where we were each given a single thin white towel. The attendant made a sweeping gesture with both hands from her head down to her knees which we read as "take everything off'."
We were naked under our towels, waiting outside a small door. "Twen TEE minuti and I call you" she said and I stared at the ancient clock to make sure it was alive. She stepped back from the door as we opened it.
We walked down a small tiled hallway with marble benches on either side. It was hot and growing hotter as we approached the bend.
Beyond the bend the walk ended at a small rocky cave. Hot water flowed from one small pool into another behind an iron gate. We took our seats and began to sweat profusely. It was a steamy 104 degrees. Time was passing slowly and I imagined our attendant out in the parking lot, smoking, yelling into her cell phone at her boyfriend. She did eventually call us out.
She led us to a small dome shaped room filled with cots. We laid down and she wrapped us in sheets and then a blanket where we sweated even more for another 20 minutes. Mozart was playing on a boombox. Jean closed her eyes. I stared up at the skylight hoping my heart rate would soon downshift from allegro to moderato.
After showering we drove back to town for a spritz, which is prosecco with a splash of campari. Sipping my spritz was the highlight of the experience.
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