Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Monday, July 28, 2014

Italy - Garfagnana

Hopping Around the Villages


Sunday, July 27, 2014

Italy - Lucca

Puccini's Hometown
The city of Lucca sits behind imposing walls, built during the Renaissance to keep the hordes from their gold.




Saturday, July 26, 2014

Italy - Driving

Tailgating is the National Sport
Whether you're on the highway, road, country lane or even in the parking lot, you can rest assured an Italian is driving five inches from your back bumper.  Tailgating in Italy is a high art form.  They're looking to pass or maybe not - everyone here thinks they're a Formula 1 driver.  In three weeks in Italy I've spent more time pulling over to get people off my rear than in three years in Singapore - where the second best tailgaters live.

Friday, July 25, 2014

Italy - Cinque Terre

Coastal Beauty
The Cinque Terre are a collection of five small coastal towns in between Genoa and Pisa.  We drove two hours to La Spezia, parked the car and rode a train twenty minutes to reach them.


Thursday, July 24, 2014

Italy - Pania Secca

Top of the Apuane
The Pania Secca and Pania della Croce are two of the higher granite peaks in the Appenines.  They stand between Benabbio and the ocean and from their peaks you can see all the way to Corsica on a clear day.  We set off on a hike from the nearby village of Piglionico to take a closer look.

Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Italy - Thermal Baths

Sweating to the Oldies
We drove the steep hills above Bagni di Lucca and parked outside the "Terme" not sure what to expect.  Once inside we were led underground two flights to a tiled antechamber where we were each given a single thin white towel.  The attendant made a sweeping gesture with both hands from her head down to her knees which we read as "take everything off'."

Italy - the Food

A Batting Percentage of .996
I've always liked Italian food but here in Tuscany I am beginning to love it.  I see why there are so many Italian restaurants in the States, I understand what they're trying to accomplish.  Unfortunately, they just don't have the ingredients.  Here, the trees and gardens furnish the spectacular, seemingly on autopilot.  I've not seen a single person tending them.  At the fruit store they ask when you're going to eat your purchase and give you something of appropriate ripeness.


Sunday, July 20, 2014

Italy - Pisa

She's Still Leaning
I'd last seen the tower 20 years ago and don't recall much though she appears to be cleaner and spiffier now.  We stopped by on the way to taking Ming to the airport.  Speaking of Ming, I forgot she had so many allergies.  Imagine coming to Italy and not drinking coffee, not eating any milk products, tomatoes or citrus fruits.  I had to scramble to learn phrases like "Lei e alergico ai laticini, agrumi e pomodori."  She ate lots of meats, breads and olive oil as well as more than one glass of prosecco.


Italy - Tirrenia

No Speedo Needed
The beach is only an hour away and there are many to choose from.  Most look like this - rows and rows of umbrellas and chairs for rent.  The one we went to was in a neighborhood called Tirrenia, which is south of Pisa a few miles.  We paid 12 Euros and were deposited in the last row, far from the water.


Friday, July 18, 2014

Italy - Ming Arrives

La Dolce Vita for Three Days
My former colleague from Paris, Ming, came for a visit.  She popped over from Paris on a one hour flight to spend a three day weekend.  She is originally from San Francisco but has been living in Paris so long that she's practically French now.


Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Italy - the Attack of Balzo Nero

Unwisely Non- Chalanting the Appenines
A few miles from our home base of Bennabio, near the village of Vico Pancellorum, we parked the car at an innocent looking trail mouth.

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Italy - Ponte del Diavolo

Or, "Devil's Bridge"
Just a few kilometers downstream from us is a thousand year old bridge.  Apparently, in the 11th century the devil himself chipped in for this grand public work.

Friday, July 11, 2014

Italy - Bagni di Lucca

Our Local "Big" Town
It's where the grocery store, market, fruit shop and cafes are.  It's just a short drive downhill from Benabbio, perched on either side of an unambitious river poorly named Torrente Lima.  It is quiet and beautiful.

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Italy - Home Sweet Home

The Village of Benabbio
Whereas I thought we would be staying in the medieval town of Lucca, birthplace of Puccini, I had it wrong.  We are 25 kilometers north, in the mountains.  We are not even in Bagni di Lucca, with its famous hot baths, we are in a tiny village called Benabbio, 8 hairpin turns up the side of a forested mountain.  We are staying in a small section of this 13th century house.

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Italy - the Drive to Lucca

Five Hour Jaunt Along the Coast
Lucca is located in NW Tuscany, at the foot of the Appenine mountains.  We opted for the slower coastal route - about a five hour drive.  It was slightly longer after we got turned around and around in Rome and stood still in parking lot traffic.

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Italy - Fighting Jetlag in Rome

Don't Fall Asleep at the Wheel
After a horrendously long twelve hours we touched down in Rome and fetched our tiny Lancia 5 speed with stick shift.  Getting our luggage into it was like doing a 3-D puzzle,  The drive from the airport took only 45 minutes and the Romans' driving etiquette was to be admired.  They are gracious drivers for the most part.