Thursday, October 16, 2014
Sunday, August 10, 2014
Tuesday, August 5, 2014
Monday, August 4, 2014
Saturday, August 2, 2014
Friday, August 1, 2014
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
Monday, July 28, 2014
Sunday, July 27, 2014
Italy - Lucca
Puccini's Hometown
The city of Lucca sits behind imposing walls, built during the Renaissance to keep the hordes from their gold.
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The city of Lucca sits behind imposing walls, built during the Renaissance to keep the hordes from their gold.
Saturday, July 26, 2014
Italy - Driving
Tailgating is the National Sport
Whether you're on the highway, road, country lane or even in the parking lot, you can rest assured an Italian is driving five inches from your back bumper. Tailgating in Italy is a high art form. They're looking to pass or maybe not - everyone here thinks they're a Formula 1 driver. In three weeks in Italy I've spent more time pulling over to get people off my rear than in three years in Singapore - where the second best tailgaters live.
Whether you're on the highway, road, country lane or even in the parking lot, you can rest assured an Italian is driving five inches from your back bumper. Tailgating in Italy is a high art form. They're looking to pass or maybe not - everyone here thinks they're a Formula 1 driver. In three weeks in Italy I've spent more time pulling over to get people off my rear than in three years in Singapore - where the second best tailgaters live.
Friday, July 25, 2014
Italy - Cinque Terre
Coastal Beauty
The Cinque Terre are a collection of five small coastal towns in between Genoa and Pisa. We drove two hours to La Spezia, parked the car and rode a train twenty minutes to reach them.
The Cinque Terre are a collection of five small coastal towns in between Genoa and Pisa. We drove two hours to La Spezia, parked the car and rode a train twenty minutes to reach them.
Thursday, July 24, 2014
Italy - Pania Secca
Top of the Apuane
The Pania Secca and Pania della Croce are two of the higher granite peaks in the Appenines. They stand between Benabbio and the ocean and from their peaks you can see all the way to Corsica on a clear day. We set off on a hike from the nearby village of Piglionico to take a closer look.
The Pania Secca and Pania della Croce are two of the higher granite peaks in the Appenines. They stand between Benabbio and the ocean and from their peaks you can see all the way to Corsica on a clear day. We set off on a hike from the nearby village of Piglionico to take a closer look.
Tuesday, July 22, 2014
Italy - Thermal Baths
Sweating to the Oldies
We drove the steep hills above Bagni di Lucca and parked outside the "Terme" not sure what to expect. Once inside we were led underground two flights to a tiled antechamber where we were each given a single thin white towel. The attendant made a sweeping gesture with both hands from her head down to her knees which we read as "take everything off'."
We drove the steep hills above Bagni di Lucca and parked outside the "Terme" not sure what to expect. Once inside we were led underground two flights to a tiled antechamber where we were each given a single thin white towel. The attendant made a sweeping gesture with both hands from her head down to her knees which we read as "take everything off'."
Italy - the Food
A Batting Percentage of .996
I've always liked Italian food but here in Tuscany I am beginning to love it. I see why there are so many Italian restaurants in the States, I understand what they're trying to accomplish. Unfortunately, they just don't have the ingredients. Here, the trees and gardens furnish the spectacular, seemingly on autopilot. I've not seen a single person tending them. At the fruit store they ask when you're going to eat your purchase and give you something of appropriate ripeness.
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I've always liked Italian food but here in Tuscany I am beginning to love it. I see why there are so many Italian restaurants in the States, I understand what they're trying to accomplish. Unfortunately, they just don't have the ingredients. Here, the trees and gardens furnish the spectacular, seemingly on autopilot. I've not seen a single person tending them. At the fruit store they ask when you're going to eat your purchase and give you something of appropriate ripeness.
Sunday, July 20, 2014
Italy - Pisa
She's Still Leaning
I'd last seen the tower 20 years ago and don't recall much though she appears to be cleaner and spiffier now. We stopped by on the way to taking Ming to the airport. Speaking of Ming, I forgot she had so many allergies. Imagine coming to Italy and not drinking coffee, not eating any milk products, tomatoes or citrus fruits. I had to scramble to learn phrases like "Lei e alergico ai laticini, agrumi e pomodori." She ate lots of meats, breads and olive oil as well as more than one glass of prosecco.
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I'd last seen the tower 20 years ago and don't recall much though she appears to be cleaner and spiffier now. We stopped by on the way to taking Ming to the airport. Speaking of Ming, I forgot she had so many allergies. Imagine coming to Italy and not drinking coffee, not eating any milk products, tomatoes or citrus fruits. I had to scramble to learn phrases like "Lei e alergico ai laticini, agrumi e pomodori." She ate lots of meats, breads and olive oil as well as more than one glass of prosecco.
Italy - Tirrenia
No Speedo Needed
The beach is only an hour away and there are many to choose from. Most look like this - rows and rows of umbrellas and chairs for rent. The one we went to was in a neighborhood called Tirrenia, which is south of Pisa a few miles. We paid 12 Euros and were deposited in the last row, far from the water.
The beach is only an hour away and there are many to choose from. Most look like this - rows and rows of umbrellas and chairs for rent. The one we went to was in a neighborhood called Tirrenia, which is south of Pisa a few miles. We paid 12 Euros and were deposited in the last row, far from the water.
Friday, July 18, 2014
Italy - Ming Arrives
La Dolce Vita for Three Days
My former colleague from Paris, Ming, came for a visit. She popped over from Paris on a one hour flight to spend a three day weekend. She is originally from San Francisco but has been living in Paris so long that she's practically French now.
My former colleague from Paris, Ming, came for a visit. She popped over from Paris on a one hour flight to spend a three day weekend. She is originally from San Francisco but has been living in Paris so long that she's practically French now.
Tuesday, July 15, 2014
Italy - the Attack of Balzo Nero
Unwisely Non- Chalanting the Appenines
A few miles from our home base of Bennabio, near the village of Vico Pancellorum, we parked the car at an innocent looking trail mouth.
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A few miles from our home base of Bennabio, near the village of Vico Pancellorum, we parked the car at an innocent looking trail mouth.
Saturday, July 12, 2014
Italy - Ponte del Diavolo
Or, "Devil's Bridge"
Just a few kilometers downstream from us is a thousand year old bridge. Apparently, in the 11th century the devil himself chipped in for this grand public work.
Just a few kilometers downstream from us is a thousand year old bridge. Apparently, in the 11th century the devil himself chipped in for this grand public work.
Friday, July 11, 2014
Italy - Bagni di Lucca
Our Local "Big" Town
It's where the grocery store, market, fruit shop and cafes are. It's just a short drive downhill from Benabbio, perched on either side of an unambitious river poorly named Torrente Lima. It is quiet and beautiful.
It's where the grocery store, market, fruit shop and cafes are. It's just a short drive downhill from Benabbio, perched on either side of an unambitious river poorly named Torrente Lima. It is quiet and beautiful.
Thursday, July 10, 2014
Italy - Home Sweet Home
The Village of Benabbio
Whereas I thought we would be staying in the medieval town of Lucca, birthplace of Puccini, I had it wrong. We are 25 kilometers north, in the mountains. We are not even in Bagni di Lucca, with its famous hot baths, we are in a tiny village called Benabbio, 8 hairpin turns up the side of a forested mountain. We are staying in a small section of this 13th century house.
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Whereas I thought we would be staying in the medieval town of Lucca, birthplace of Puccini, I had it wrong. We are 25 kilometers north, in the mountains. We are not even in Bagni di Lucca, with its famous hot baths, we are in a tiny village called Benabbio, 8 hairpin turns up the side of a forested mountain. We are staying in a small section of this 13th century house.
Wednesday, July 9, 2014
Italy - the Drive to Lucca
Five Hour Jaunt Along the Coast
Lucca is located in NW Tuscany, at the foot of the Appenine mountains. We opted for the slower coastal route - about a five hour drive. It was slightly longer after we got turned around and around in Rome and stood still in parking lot traffic.
Lucca is located in NW Tuscany, at the foot of the Appenine mountains. We opted for the slower coastal route - about a five hour drive. It was slightly longer after we got turned around and around in Rome and stood still in parking lot traffic.
Tuesday, July 8, 2014
Italy - Fighting Jetlag in Rome
Don't Fall Asleep at the Wheel
After a horrendously long twelve hours we touched down in Rome and fetched our tiny Lancia 5 speed with stick shift. Getting our luggage into it was like doing a 3-D puzzle, The drive from the airport took only 45 minutes and the Romans' driving etiquette was to be admired. They are gracious drivers for the most part.
After a horrendously long twelve hours we touched down in Rome and fetched our tiny Lancia 5 speed with stick shift. Getting our luggage into it was like doing a 3-D puzzle, The drive from the airport took only 45 minutes and the Romans' driving etiquette was to be admired. They are gracious drivers for the most part.
Wednesday, May 21, 2014
Day 6 - Bamboo to Thulo Shyafru
A Short Reintroduction to Ascension
Distance - 5 miles
Time - 4 hrs
Elevation - from 6,397 to 7,414
Equivalent flights of stairs = a blessedly small 100 flights
Out of the twelve, this was my favorite day. We departed the "trekking trail" which follows the river and turned onto the "pilgrim's trail" which climbs from the valley south, towards the sacred lake of Gosaikunda. What made this day memorable was our destination - the beautiful village of Thulo Shyafru. I would've happily stayed there for the rest of our journey.
Distance - 5 miles
Time - 4 hrs
Elevation - from 6,397 to 7,414
Equivalent flights of stairs = a blessedly small 100 flights
Out of the twelve, this was my favorite day. We departed the "trekking trail" which follows the river and turned onto the "pilgrim's trail" which climbs from the valley south, towards the sacred lake of Gosaikunda. What made this day memorable was our destination - the beautiful village of Thulo Shyafru. I would've happily stayed there for the rest of our journey.
Tuesday, May 20, 2014
Day 5 - Langtang to Bamboo
All Down, All Day
Distance - 10 miles
Time - 7 hrs
Elevation - from 11,236 to 6,397
Equivalent flights of stairs = 484
We decided to bite off a bigger chunk of downhill to shorten the following day's hike, which would be steeply uphill. We descended almost 5,000 feet. First things first, this was our morning view. I stretched and took in the cool air as my breakfast chapati was cooking.
Distance - 10 miles
Time - 7 hrs
Elevation - from 11,236 to 6,397
Equivalent flights of stairs = 484
We decided to bite off a bigger chunk of downhill to shorten the following day's hike, which would be steeply uphill. We descended almost 5,000 feet. First things first, this was our morning view. I stretched and took in the cool air as my breakfast chapati was cooking.
Monday, May 19, 2014
Nepal - Flora and Fauna
Characters
We met fellow trekkers on the trail and in the tea houses. Our first encounter was with a young, dread locked Israeli guy. He was hiking alone, without a porter or guide. He was more interested in spending his money on marijuana, he later explained. I wondered if he just plucked it from the ground, it grows wild along the trail below 9,000 feet.
We met fellow trekkers on the trail and in the tea houses. Our first encounter was with a young, dread locked Israeli guy. He was hiking alone, without a porter or guide. He was more interested in spending his money on marijuana, he later explained. I wondered if he just plucked it from the ground, it grows wild along the trail below 9,000 feet.
Day 4 - Ascent of Kyanjin Ri and Return to Langtang
The Dodo Made Me Do It
I gave her an out, told her we didn't have to do it if she didn't want to. Even after the worst, shallowest excuse for a night of sleep we'd had so far, she stood firm. "Try lah. See how" she said, slipping into Singlish. I have to hand it to her, my girlfriend is tough. I gained a new level of respect for her.
I gave her an out, told her we didn't have to do it if she didn't want to. Even after the worst, shallowest excuse for a night of sleep we'd had so far, she stood firm. "Try lah. See how" she said, slipping into Singlish. I have to hand it to her, my girlfriend is tough. I gained a new level of respect for her.
Sunday, May 18, 2014
Day 3 - Langtang to Kyanjin Gompa
To the Glacier's Edge
Distance - 7 miles
Time - 6 hrs
Elevation - from 11,236 feet to 12,700
Equivalent flights of stairs = 150
Distance - 7 miles
Time - 6 hrs
Elevation - from 11,236 feet to 12,700
Equivalent flights of stairs = 150
Saturday, May 17, 2014
Nepal - Sharing the Trail
Wide Variety
We saw many porters along the Langtang trail. They carry everything you can imagine. Iron stoves, gas canisters, rice, sacks of cement, wood beams and even re bar twisted into ten foot paperclips. At one point we saw a string of porters with baskets of live chickens. They were headed up to a group of Koreans who couldn't bear the thought of a single meal without poultry. Everything in the higher elevations of Langtang was lugged up on someones back except for the stones. They make it look easy, at an altitude above which planes are required to be equipped with oxygen masks.
We saw many porters along the Langtang trail. They carry everything you can imagine. Iron stoves, gas canisters, rice, sacks of cement, wood beams and even re bar twisted into ten foot paperclips. At one point we saw a string of porters with baskets of live chickens. They were headed up to a group of Koreans who couldn't bear the thought of a single meal without poultry. Everything in the higher elevations of Langtang was lugged up on someones back except for the stones. They make it look easy, at an altitude above which planes are required to be equipped with oxygen masks.
Day 2 - Lama to Langtang
The Long Day
Distance - 7 miles
Time - 7 hrs
Elevation - from 7,939 feet to 11,236
Equivalent flights of stairs = 333
Friday, May 16, 2014
Day 1 - Syapru Besi to Lama
The First of a Million Steps
Distance - 8 miles
Time - 6 hrs
Elevation - from 4,790 feet to 7,939 feet
Equivalent flights of stairs = 311
Distance - 8 miles
Time - 6 hrs
Elevation - from 4,790 feet to 7,939 feet
Equivalent flights of stairs = 311
Thursday, May 15, 2014
Day Minus 1 - Drive from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi
And We're Off
We chose to trek within Langtang National Park next to the Tibet border. Compared to the Everest base camp trek, which is rated difficult, our trek was more suited to out-of-shape people like ourselves. The drive from Kathmandu to Langtang, though just 40 miles as the crow flies, is a seven hour slog via jeep over the scariest roads and through the most beautiful countryside.
We chose to trek within Langtang National Park next to the Tibet border. Compared to the Everest base camp trek, which is rated difficult, our trek was more suited to out-of-shape people like ourselves. The drive from Kathmandu to Langtang, though just 40 miles as the crow flies, is a seven hour slog via jeep over the scariest roads and through the most beautiful countryside.
Wednesday, May 14, 2014
Day Minus 2 - Flight to Kathmandu
A "Quick" Hop
Forty five minutes to Kuala Lumpur then another four hours to Kathmandu. Our trekking guide, MB (initials for an unpronounceable name), met us outside the airport. He led us to a waiting car and we were followed by two guys who did absolutely nothing except whisper "tip, tip" to me unsuccessfully as I closed the car door. First impression: India. We drove to the headquarters of the trekking company and were met with smiles by a man named Samden, whose mother owns the company. He gave us an overview of the trekking itinerary and then we were off to our "hotel", below, for a night.
Forty five minutes to Kuala Lumpur then another four hours to Kathmandu. Our trekking guide, MB (initials for an unpronounceable name), met us outside the airport. He led us to a waiting car and we were followed by two guys who did absolutely nothing except whisper "tip, tip" to me unsuccessfully as I closed the car door. First impression: India. We drove to the headquarters of the trekking company and were met with smiles by a man named Samden, whose mother owns the company. He gave us an overview of the trekking itinerary and then we were off to our "hotel", below, for a night.
Monday, May 5, 2014
Siem Reap - Temples
The Temple Region
Angkor Wat is but one temple in a vast temple graveyard north of the city. Every patch of blue on this map is a moat surrounding an old temple save the large rectangled "Barays", ancient reservoirs that feed the rice paddies. Angkor Wat is the small blue square closest to the city. Angkor Thom and Prasat Bayon are inside the larger blue square between the Barays. Ta Prohm is at the SW corner of the East Baray. Song took me to all of these via tuk tuk.
Sunday, May 4, 2014
Siem Reap - Khmer Cooking
Heading into the Countryside for Class
My afternoon cooking class started with a long tuk tuk ride south of Siem Reap.
My afternoon cooking class started with a long tuk tuk ride south of Siem Reap.
Saturday, May 3, 2014
Siem Reap - Money
Uncle Sam Rules
You can either pay in US Dollars or Cambodian Riel. It takes a quick mind as you will be quoted a price in one or the other and often get change in both. One dollar is worth 4,000 riel. This is the first country I have been to that has no coins. Or, rather, they are not used and I didn't see any. If you are quoted a price of fifty cents you can either pay 2,000 riel or hand over a dollar and get 2,000 riel in change.
You can either pay in US Dollars or Cambodian Riel. It takes a quick mind as you will be quoted a price in one or the other and often get change in both. One dollar is worth 4,000 riel. This is the first country I have been to that has no coins. Or, rather, they are not used and I didn't see any. If you are quoted a price of fifty cents you can either pay 2,000 riel or hand over a dollar and get 2,000 riel in change.
Friday, May 2, 2014
Siem Reap - First Visit to Cambodia
Gas on High, Light Match
I flew on Malaysia Airlines via Kuala Lumpur, three hours in total. As you might imagine, with the recent Malaysia Airlines news, I got a great price. Thailand to the left, Laos above and Vietnam to the right. Siem Reap is just north of the large lake in the middle of the country, Ton Le Sap lake. It feeds Ton Le Sap river which meanders southeast where it joins the Mekong outside of Phnom Penh.
I flew on Malaysia Airlines via Kuala Lumpur, three hours in total. As you might imagine, with the recent Malaysia Airlines news, I got a great price. Thailand to the left, Laos above and Vietnam to the right. Siem Reap is just north of the large lake in the middle of the country, Ton Le Sap lake. It feeds Ton Le Sap river which meanders southeast where it joins the Mekong outside of Phnom Penh.
Friday, February 28, 2014
Singapore - Birthday Celebrations
Yes, As in Plural
This was a great birthday year -I had three separate parties. The first was about ten days ago with Jean and her friends at an Italian restaurant. Plenty of wine was flowing.
This was a great birthday year -I had three separate parties. The first was about ten days ago with Jean and her friends at an Italian restaurant. Plenty of wine was flowing.
Wednesday, February 26, 2014
Singapore - Garden Update
Fruitful
Despite 35 straight days with no rain, things are fairing well on the roof. Most of the plants need water three times a week but the chili plant drinks daily. I've eaten and harvested many green chilies and couldn't keep up - some turned red and I've got them drying in the sun for longer keeping.
Despite 35 straight days with no rain, things are fairing well on the roof. Most of the plants need water three times a week but the chili plant drinks daily. I've eaten and harvested many green chilies and couldn't keep up - some turned red and I've got them drying in the sun for longer keeping.
Monday, February 10, 2014
Sunday, January 12, 2014
Thursday, January 9, 2014
Chiang Mai - Here We Come
Thank Goodness for Business Trips
Dodo has to go to Chiang Mai for a business trip, I'm tagging along. It's in Northern Thailand, near the Burma border. While she is sitting through meeting monologues, I'll be attending a two-day cooking class at a farm in the countryside. We leave Monday.
Dodo has to go to Chiang Mai for a business trip, I'm tagging along. It's in Northern Thailand, near the Burma border. While she is sitting through meeting monologues, I'll be attending a two-day cooking class at a farm in the countryside. We leave Monday.
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