Cusco, Peru - Touching Down in the Andes

Shades of Brown
Cusco is a city made of stone, 11,000 feet above sea level.  We arrived by plane yesterday and felt the altitude as soon as we stepped off.  My chest tightened as if wrapped by a belt and I could hear my heartbeat deep inside my ears, a swish-swoosh that sounded like windshield wipers.  The city soaks up an entire valley, surrounded by dusty mountains that have waited for months for the dry season to end. 

We are in the San Blas neighborhood, high in the hills overlooking the city.  It's a maze of narrow alleyways connected by staircases.  Our taxi took us as far in as he could - we walked the last few blocks with our luggage.  Actually, I wouldn't characterize it as walking.  More akin to shuffling interrupted by bouts of deep breathing for four to five breaths then shuffling some more.

To go from sea level to 11,000 feet is taxing.  Not that the locals mind.  They jog past you as you wheeze your way up the steps.

Our final climb of stairs were these, followed by a right turn

Then we walked down a thankfully short alley to our house.

It's built into the side of the hill, the front door letting you in at the highest point, each successive floor further down and outwards.  There is a beautiful deck with a view of the city.  At the far end of the deck is a winding staircase down to our room.

It's comfortable and takes maximum advantage of the views.

We took a walk into town to meet up with our tour guide.  He gave us and a few others an overview of the 4 day hike, describing the first day as the easy day, the second as challenging, the third as historical and final day, in Macchu Picchu, as magical.  We have a porter who'll carry 12 lbs of stuff for us, which adds up to our sleeping bags and roll-up mattresses.  We'll have to carry the rest in our our own backpacks, mostly clothes, snacks and water. 

We walked around the historical part of the city and bought some things for the hike: water, snacks, some walking sticks.

We're lucky to be staying in the hills.  The only way to acclimate to high altitude is to move.  The more rigorously, the better. 

The weather is clear in the morning, around 45 degrees and heats up to around 65 in the afternoon.  It then begins to rain.

The Plaza de Armas had actual arms.  There was some kind of parade with the police and army high-stepping in front of an interested crowd of locals and tourist alike.

What stands out about Cusco is the stone work.  Everything is made out of stones of different sizes and shapes.

It's the type of stone work the Incas are known for.  Stones that fit so perfectly and tightly together that they do not require any kind of cement or filler. 

When Pizarro arrived here in the mid-1500s, he was said to have been so impressed by the stone masonry that he remarked it was better than in Spain.

I didn't see a single cinder block.

Our tour guide gave us some good advice - drink lots of water and don't overeat when you first arrive at elevation.  In the central market we mostly just looked around.  Neither of us was keen to roll the bacteria dice just the day before the hike.

It's an impressive market.  There are two entire aisles of just fruit juice merchants.  They stand up on ladders behind their stands vying for business by waving their laminated menus like fans.

We stopped for a quick drink of orange, papaya and ginger. 

Rather than street food, we're playing it safe - sticking to cafes and restaurants.

We even got a fancy meal and it was well worth it.  Classic Cusco fare but with fancy plates and glasses.

By 6pm it's pitch dark and chilly.  All I want to do is get under the covers and look out at the city.