We went over the Andes by hopping lakes, which was not exactly what I expected. The pros: natural beauty. The cons: four buses and three boats.
Thursday, November 30, 2017
San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina - Lake Hopping
From Chile to Argentina
We went over the Andes by hopping lakes, which was not exactly what I expected. The pros: natural beauty. The cons: four buses and three boats.
We went over the Andes by hopping lakes, which was not exactly what I expected. The pros: natural beauty. The cons: four buses and three boats.
Puerto Varas, Chile - Deeper into the Rhineland
Further South
We're another three hundred miles further south in Patagonia and the German influence is increasing. We took a cab from the bus station to our AirBnB and the cabbie was listening to polka music. When his cell phone rang, the ringer was more polka music. You cannot make this stuff up.
We're another three hundred miles further south in Patagonia and the German influence is increasing. We took a cab from the bus station to our AirBnB and the cabbie was listening to polka music. When his cell phone rang, the ringer was more polka music. You cannot make this stuff up.
Monday, November 27, 2017
Villarrica, Chile - Stepping on a Volcano
Fighting the Mind
It's said that during times of extreme exhaustion, the body rules the mind. Even with 8 hours of restful sleep, my body has my mind on a leash. I hear the alarm at 5am and my first thought is 'she might just say forget it.' This leads to my next thought 'I cannot get my money back whether I climb it or not. I could just keep sleeping.'
It's said that during times of extreme exhaustion, the body rules the mind. Even with 8 hours of restful sleep, my body has my mind on a leash. I hear the alarm at 5am and my first thought is 'she might just say forget it.' This leads to my next thought 'I cannot get my money back whether I climb it or not. I could just keep sleeping.'
Saturday, November 25, 2017
Villarrica, Chile - Setting our Sights
The Villarrica Volcano
There are thousands of volcanoes in Chile but very few are active. The exception is the Villarrica volcano, it sits just west of town. It's conical like Mt Fuji but has a plume of smoke coming out of the top. There is an active lava pool in the crater, you can climb it and see for yourself if you're crazy enough. We signed up, it turns out we're a bit crazy.
There are thousands of volcanoes in Chile but very few are active. The exception is the Villarrica volcano, it sits just west of town. It's conical like Mt Fuji but has a plume of smoke coming out of the top. There is an active lava pool in the crater, you can climb it and see for yourself if you're crazy enough. We signed up, it turns out we're a bit crazy.
Friday, November 24, 2017
Villarrica, Chile - Patagonia
Waking up in Germany
An overnight bus from Santiago can transport you to places far away. When I awoke at 7am the dusty plains were long gone. We looked to be in upstate New York or New England. Nothing but rolling farmland, pastures, apple groves. Then I looked more closely at the houses, they sparked something familiar. It suddenly felt like we were in Germany or Austria.
An overnight bus from Santiago can transport you to places far away. When I awoke at 7am the dusty plains were long gone. We looked to be in upstate New York or New England. Nothing but rolling farmland, pastures, apple groves. Then I looked more closely at the houses, they sparked something familiar. It suddenly felt like we were in Germany or Austria.
Thursday, November 23, 2017
Santiago, Chile - Walking
Shade
Santiago is in the grip of spring, soon to be summer. It's hot in the afternoon, close to 90. Under the trees it's fifteen degrees cooler and in Santiago you can walk miles under the trees. It's such a green, shaded city.
Santiago is in the grip of spring, soon to be summer. It's hot in the afternoon, close to 90. Under the trees it's fifteen degrees cooler and in Santiago you can walk miles under the trees. It's such a green, shaded city.
Santiago, Chile - Odds and Ends
Vibrancy
Santiago is lively. People are out on the street at all times of day, talking, selling, walking, eating. Their central market is gigantic and sells everything you can imagine. This stand was selling relishes and pickles by the barrel.
Santiago is lively. People are out on the street at all times of day, talking, selling, walking, eating. Their central market is gigantic and sells everything you can imagine. This stand was selling relishes and pickles by the barrel.
Wednesday, November 22, 2017
Santiago, Chile - La Chascona
Pablo Neruda's Santiago House
We stayed a block away from one of Pablo Neruda's houses, Chascona, in the foothills of the Bellavista neighborhood. Rather than a single house, it's three small houses connected by footpaths. I didn't expect much, what would a poet's house tell me about the poet?
We stayed a block away from one of Pablo Neruda's houses, Chascona, in the foothills of the Bellavista neighborhood. Rather than a single house, it's three small houses connected by footpaths. I didn't expect much, what would a poet's house tell me about the poet?
Santiago, Chile - First Impressions
What I Love About Santiago
Street Art
It's everywhere you look, on the sides of buildings, on billboards, in the subway stations. Colorful, creative, fun to look at.
Street Art
It's everywhere you look, on the sides of buildings, on billboards, in the subway stations. Colorful, creative, fun to look at.
Tuesday, November 21, 2017
Calama, Chile - The Lawyer & the Bus Driver
Unnecessary Stress
"An hour is more than enough time to check in at the local airport, it's very small" he said, handing us the tickets. "I need an exact address so the bus knows where to pick you up." We agreed on a small restaurant and he told us to be there by 4:30pm. I liked his math. Our flight was at 8:10pm and the airport was 60 miles north of San Pedro in a small city named Calama. We'd arrive around 5:30 and have plenty of time to check in, eat dinner and board the flight to Santiago. We got to the restaurant early, sat at a small table near the road, ordered a drink and waited. Buses of all sizes and shapes slowed near the restaurant but didn't stop. At 4:30 Dodo went outside and looked up and down the street. At 4:45 I decided to wait outside under the shade of a tree. At 5:00pm I tried to call the bus company but got no answer. Fifteen minutes later a taxi driver came by, rolled down his window "Aeropuerto?' Yes, how much? I asked. The amount was so high I waved him off in disgust. We discussed our options: stay and pray, walk to the tour operator, try to find another van. I suggested that I'd stay and wait while Dodo went to the van operator's office. "But I don't speak Spanish, what do I say?"
"An hour is more than enough time to check in at the local airport, it's very small" he said, handing us the tickets. "I need an exact address so the bus knows where to pick you up." We agreed on a small restaurant and he told us to be there by 4:30pm. I liked his math. Our flight was at 8:10pm and the airport was 60 miles north of San Pedro in a small city named Calama. We'd arrive around 5:30 and have plenty of time to check in, eat dinner and board the flight to Santiago. We got to the restaurant early, sat at a small table near the road, ordered a drink and waited. Buses of all sizes and shapes slowed near the restaurant but didn't stop. At 4:30 Dodo went outside and looked up and down the street. At 4:45 I decided to wait outside under the shade of a tree. At 5:00pm I tried to call the bus company but got no answer. Fifteen minutes later a taxi driver came by, rolled down his window "Aeropuerto?' Yes, how much? I asked. The amount was so high I waved him off in disgust. We discussed our options: stay and pray, walk to the tour operator, try to find another van. I suggested that I'd stay and wait while Dodo went to the van operator's office. "But I don't speak Spanish, what do I say?"
Monday, November 20, 2017
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile - Re-Entry into the Machine
A Shift in Worlds
We sped downhill on smooth blacktop towards San Pedro. Within 45 minutes of leaving Bolivia, we'd descended 5,000 feet and gone from 30 degrees to 75. It's so much warmer here that even immigration won't set up at the border - our minivan drove us directly to the inspection point at the edge of town. We got off, filled in some forms, got our luggage x-rayed, passports stamped and got back in the minivan for a five minute drive into the center of town.
We sped downhill on smooth blacktop towards San Pedro. Within 45 minutes of leaving Bolivia, we'd descended 5,000 feet and gone from 30 degrees to 75. It's so much warmer here that even immigration won't set up at the border - our minivan drove us directly to the inspection point at the edge of town. We got off, filled in some forms, got our luggage x-rayed, passports stamped and got back in the minivan for a five minute drive into the center of town.
Sunday, November 19, 2017
Uyuni, Bolivia - Final Day
Early Day
I slept from 8pm to midnight until awakened by the sound of someone vomiting violently. Our room was at the end of the hall near the toilets. I slept off and on from there as the vomiting continued for hours. I imagined that a whole group of people were sick but later learned it was just one poor soul. We got up at 4am, had a quick breakfast and were on our way to the geysers.
I slept from 8pm to midnight until awakened by the sound of someone vomiting violently. Our room was at the end of the hall near the toilets. I slept off and on from there as the vomiting continued for hours. I imagined that a whole group of people were sick but later learned it was just one poor soul. We got up at 4am, had a quick breakfast and were on our way to the geysers.
Uyuni, Bolivia - Lagoons
Islands of Life
Once you leave the salt flat and climb into the high desert, you begin to see lagoons. The first was so colorful that I ripped off my sunglasses to look. A swirling white cloud passed over and Karine asked our tour guide Eddie about it. "Salt cloud?" "Nope" he replied. "Borax."
Once you leave the salt flat and climb into the high desert, you begin to see lagoons. The first was so colorful that I ripped off my sunglasses to look. A swirling white cloud passed over and Karine asked our tour guide Eddie about it. "Salt cloud?" "Nope" he replied. "Borax."
Saturday, November 18, 2017
Uyuni, Bolivia - Deserts
Cold and Dust
I am dressed in every layer I have but I've not felt this cold in decades. It's the wind, forty and fifty miles an hour with no let up. The cold gets me in the ankles, the weak point of my gear - I'm wearing sneakers and short athletic socks. Everyone else has hiking boots and long wool socks. When we pull over to take photos, I am slow to get out of the truck, sometimes opting to outsource the photo taking to the Dodo.
I am dressed in every layer I have but I've not felt this cold in decades. It's the wind, forty and fifty miles an hour with no let up. The cold gets me in the ankles, the weak point of my gear - I'm wearing sneakers and short athletic socks. Everyone else has hiking boots and long wool socks. When we pull over to take photos, I am slow to get out of the truck, sometimes opting to outsource the photo taking to the Dodo.
Uyuni, Bolivia - Perspectives
Trick Photography
I didn't understand why our guide Eddie kept asking us about our "props." He said the best size is 15 centimeters and he alluded to taking photos. I finally got it when I saw him set up for his first shot with Erica, the young lady from Norway. Since there is nothing on the horizon to give away relative distances, you can do trick photography.
I didn't understand why our guide Eddie kept asking us about our "props." He said the best size is 15 centimeters and he alluded to taking photos. I finally got it when I saw him set up for his first shot with Erica, the young lady from Norway. Since there is nothing on the horizon to give away relative distances, you can do trick photography.
Friday, November 17, 2017
Uyuni, Bolivia - Salt
Taking Off
The guide threw our bags up to the driver who packed them on top of the 4x4 under a thick tarp. There'd be seven of us in total - we were joined by a Swiss couple and a young lady from Norway. We were warned to buy everything we needed: water, toilet paper, snacks. With every mile into the desert, the prices would skyrocket.
The guide threw our bags up to the driver who packed them on top of the 4x4 under a thick tarp. There'd be seven of us in total - we were joined by a Swiss couple and a young lady from Norway. We were warned to buy everything we needed: water, toilet paper, snacks. With every mile into the desert, the prices would skyrocket.
Uyuni, Bolivia - Desert Crossing
A Trip of Superlatives
We took a 45 minute flight from La Paz to Uyuni, a small town in south-central Bolivia known for salt. We signed up for a three day, two night desert tour.
We took a 45 minute flight from La Paz to Uyuni, a small town in south-central Bolivia known for salt. We signed up for a three day, two night desert tour.
Thursday, November 16, 2017
La Paz, Bolivia - Food
The Usual Routine
The day we arrived we went straight to the central market, which in La Paz is a sprawling maze of buildings and street stalls perched on a steep hill. We walked the market looking for a food stand or makeshift restaurant but didn't find any. Dodo stopped at a street vendor and ordered something unknown. It turned out to be a deep-fried potato that had been stuffed with onions and veggies.
The day we arrived we went straight to the central market, which in La Paz is a sprawling maze of buildings and street stalls perched on a steep hill. We walked the market looking for a food stand or makeshift restaurant but didn't find any. Dodo stopped at a street vendor and ordered something unknown. It turned out to be a deep-fried potato that had been stuffed with onions and veggies.
La Paz, Bolivia - The Teleferico
High Above the Gridlock
The teleferico lines are differentiated by color. We planned to take the yellow, which was close to our house, to the green towards the south side of town. The ride costs 80 cents - I bought a handful of tickets to cover the line change from yellow to green and the return ride home.
The teleferico lines are differentiated by color. We planned to take the yellow, which was close to our house, to the green towards the south side of town. The ride costs 80 cents - I bought a handful of tickets to cover the line change from yellow to green and the return ride home.
Wednesday, November 15, 2017
La Paz, Bolivia - Magic Realism
Landing on Another Planet
Even if you were possessed of unlimited creativity and time, you could never draw up a city like this. La Paz is 14,000 feet up, with terracotta houses sprinkled amongst dry shards of mountain, pink and grey. It's like no city I've ever seen - as if we'd landed on the first city erected on Mars.
Even if you were possessed of unlimited creativity and time, you could never draw up a city like this. La Paz is 14,000 feet up, with terracotta houses sprinkled amongst dry shards of mountain, pink and grey. It's like no city I've ever seen - as if we'd landed on the first city erected on Mars.
Monday, November 13, 2017
Peru-Bolivia Border - Bureaucracy Defined
It's Hard Getting into Bolivia
I admit it. I was too lazy to get a visa in advance. I'd heard that you could buy one at the border and didn't give it a lot more thought. When we purchased our bus tickets from Puno to La Paz, the ticket seller asked me if I had a visa. She told me I'd have to pay because I was American. "What about her?" She glanced at the Singaporean passport and shook her head no. On our bus ride we were given a bunch of forms to fill out. We bounced along the western shore of Titicaca towards the border town of Desaguadero, where we'd have to get out, walk into the middle of the town, get our Peruvian exit stamp, walk across a bridge over a small river that separates Peru and Bolivia and into Bolovian immigration.
I admit it. I was too lazy to get a visa in advance. I'd heard that you could buy one at the border and didn't give it a lot more thought. When we purchased our bus tickets from Puno to La Paz, the ticket seller asked me if I had a visa. She told me I'd have to pay because I was American. "What about her?" She glanced at the Singaporean passport and shook her head no. On our bus ride we were given a bunch of forms to fill out. We bounced along the western shore of Titicaca towards the border town of Desaguadero, where we'd have to get out, walk into the middle of the town, get our Peruvian exit stamp, walk across a bridge over a small river that separates Peru and Bolivia and into Bolovian immigration.
Saturday, November 11, 2017
Isla Taquile, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Deeper into the Lake
Shades of Italy
I slept under so many heavy blankets that my hips began to hurt and I was forced to shed two of them in the middle of the night. Dodo got up to pee at 2am and had to cross our little island to the bathroom building. She said she'd never seen stars like that - they filled the sky. After breakfast we were to take a tour of Uros and then head deeper into the lake to Taquile Island.
Friday, November 10, 2017
Uros, Lake Titcaca, Peru - The Floating Hotel
Sleeping and Eating with the Uros
When we got off the bus, Victor, our taxi driver was there to take us to the dock. Not the main dock with the big boats, but a sleepier one with smaller boats. We were on our way out into the lake to stay on a small floating island, one family big. The Uros are a people who pre-date the Incas, speak Aymara as their main language and for some reason, decided to live on floating islands in lake Titicaca. In addition to their usual trades of fishing and hunting, some of the families invite tourists to stay with them on their small islands.
When we got off the bus, Victor, our taxi driver was there to take us to the dock. Not the main dock with the big boats, but a sleepier one with smaller boats. We were on our way out into the lake to stay on a small floating island, one family big. The Uros are a people who pre-date the Incas, speak Aymara as their main language and for some reason, decided to live on floating islands in lake Titicaca. In addition to their usual trades of fishing and hunting, some of the families invite tourists to stay with them on their small islands.
Puno, Peru - Entering the Altiplano
High Plains Drifters
Just six hours of sleep separated our Macchu Picchu outing from a bus ride out of Cusco to Puno, Peru. We are entering the top of the Altiplano, the "high plain", the widest part of the Andes and the second highest plain in the world, outside of Tibet. On average, it's over 12,000 feet above sea level and spans Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Rain from the eastern and western Andes collects in the plain, and with no outlet, feeds lake Titicaca in the north and evaporates to leave behind the large salt flats of Uyuni in the south. We are on our way to see both, we'll be spending close to a week traversing the Altiplano.
Just six hours of sleep separated our Macchu Picchu outing from a bus ride out of Cusco to Puno, Peru. We are entering the top of the Altiplano, the "high plain", the widest part of the Andes and the second highest plain in the world, outside of Tibet. On average, it's over 12,000 feet above sea level and spans Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Rain from the eastern and western Andes collects in the plain, and with no outlet, feeds lake Titicaca in the north and evaporates to leave behind the large salt flats of Uyuni in the south. We are on our way to see both, we'll be spending close to a week traversing the Altiplano.
Thursday, November 9, 2017
Macchu Picchu, Peru - Hike Day 4
The Final Day
We rose at 3am and waited in our tent for the usual hand delivered tea and coffee service. We waited and waited. None ever came. Guess we know what the chaskis thought of our tips from the night before. I peeked out of the tent and saw them running around in the dark, getting water, making breakfast. They had to hurry since this was the end of the road for them. After packing up all the gear, they had to run straight down the side of the mountain to catch a 5:30am train. If they missed it they'd have to wait all day for the next one.
We rose at 3am and waited in our tent for the usual hand delivered tea and coffee service. We waited and waited. None ever came. Guess we know what the chaskis thought of our tips from the night before. I peeked out of the tent and saw them running around in the dark, getting water, making breakfast. They had to hurry since this was the end of the road for them. After packing up all the gear, they had to run straight down the side of the mountain to catch a 5:30am train. If they missed it they'd have to wait all day for the next one.
Wednesday, November 8, 2017
Macchu Picchu, Peru - Hike Day 3
The Magical Day
Our guide Nilton refers to day three as magical since you get to see many Inca ruins. I slept considerably better, most likely due to the fact that the tough day two was behind us. Day three starts with a 2,000 foot climb across Runkurukay pass, from 11,000 feet to 13,000 feet. As usual, the Ringleader and her three Baltimore sidekicks raced off ahead of everyone and didn't wait for us at the pass.
Our guide Nilton refers to day three as magical since you get to see many Inca ruins. I slept considerably better, most likely due to the fact that the tough day two was behind us. Day three starts with a 2,000 foot climb across Runkurukay pass, from 11,000 feet to 13,000 feet. As usual, the Ringleader and her three Baltimore sidekicks raced off ahead of everyone and didn't wait for us at the pass.
Tuesday, November 7, 2017
Macchu Picchu, Peru - Hike Day 2
The "Challenging" Day
I didn't sleep alone, my high altitude headache kept me company throughout the night. When I did manage to drift off for an hour, he tapped me on the temple to wake me up. I don't think I slept more than 3-4 shallow hours. I woke up feeling worse than the night before. At breakfast there was a lively discussion. We had the option to hire a local chaski (porter) to carry our pack just for this day. Manny and the other guide, Nilton, were encouraging us to do so. I didn't need any encouragement. "I just feel if I don't carry my pack, it would be like cheating" said Emma, an Englishwoman with rosy cheeks and doughy limbs. A few of the younger Americans agreed. I kept my mouth closed. We were all cheating. Without the chaskis to carry the tents, food and cooking utensils, a chef to cook for us and guides to lead us, we'd never make it half way to Macchu Picchu.
I didn't sleep alone, my high altitude headache kept me company throughout the night. When I did manage to drift off for an hour, he tapped me on the temple to wake me up. I don't think I slept more than 3-4 shallow hours. I woke up feeling worse than the night before. At breakfast there was a lively discussion. We had the option to hire a local chaski (porter) to carry our pack just for this day. Manny and the other guide, Nilton, were encouraging us to do so. I didn't need any encouragement. "I just feel if I don't carry my pack, it would be like cheating" said Emma, an Englishwoman with rosy cheeks and doughy limbs. A few of the younger Americans agreed. I kept my mouth closed. We were all cheating. Without the chaskis to carry the tents, food and cooking utensils, a chef to cook for us and guides to lead us, we'd never make it half way to Macchu Picchu.
Monday, November 6, 2017
Macchu Picchu, Peru - Hike Day 1
Surveying the Changes
I hiked Macchu Picchu for the first time 22 years ago. Since then it has become more popular. So much so that the Peruvian government instituted many new regulations. The most important being that they've limited the number of hikers on the trail to 500 a day. That is probably ten times the number that was on the trail when I first went. Matter of fact, I don't recall seeing any other hikers the entire time 22 years ago - we had it to ourselves. At 5am our guide picked us up at our apartment and we got on the bus to join the other 14 in our group: 4 Australians, 1 English woman and 9 Americans. It would prove to be an interesting mix of characters. The ring leader of the characters presented herself on the bus ride, unprompted, this way "Hi, I'm Maya, I'm Lebanese but was born and raised in Baltimore and I now live in Hawaii. I am probably going to be the biggest complainer of the group. Ok, you're turn." Nobody responded. I slunk down in my seat and rolled my eyes. She is the only person in the photo whose face you cannot see. She never wanted to be in any group pictures and always volunteered to take the photo so she didn't have to be in it.
I hiked Macchu Picchu for the first time 22 years ago. Since then it has become more popular. So much so that the Peruvian government instituted many new regulations. The most important being that they've limited the number of hikers on the trail to 500 a day. That is probably ten times the number that was on the trail when I first went. Matter of fact, I don't recall seeing any other hikers the entire time 22 years ago - we had it to ourselves. At 5am our guide picked us up at our apartment and we got on the bus to join the other 14 in our group: 4 Australians, 1 English woman and 9 Americans. It would prove to be an interesting mix of characters. The ring leader of the characters presented herself on the bus ride, unprompted, this way "Hi, I'm Maya, I'm Lebanese but was born and raised in Baltimore and I now live in Hawaii. I am probably going to be the biggest complainer of the group. Ok, you're turn." Nobody responded. I slunk down in my seat and rolled my eyes. She is the only person in the photo whose face you cannot see. She never wanted to be in any group pictures and always volunteered to take the photo so she didn't have to be in it.
Sunday, November 5, 2017
Cusco, Peru - Come to Jesus
Religious Conversion by Way of Oxygen Deprivation
We were both awake at two this morning with altitude headaches. I turned on talk radio and took many deep breaths before falling back to sleep. Today we took a warm up hike to speed up the acclimatization, one with many stone steps and a big white statue as the payoff. These South Americans sure love their Jesus - he always gets the best view.
We were both awake at two this morning with altitude headaches. I turned on talk radio and took many deep breaths before falling back to sleep. Today we took a warm up hike to speed up the acclimatization, one with many stone steps and a big white statue as the payoff. These South Americans sure love their Jesus - he always gets the best view.
Cusco, Peru - Touching Down in the Andes
Shades of Brown
Cusco is a city made of stone, 11,000 feet above sea level. We arrived by plane yesterday and felt the altitude as soon as we stepped off. My chest tightened as if wrapped by a belt and I could hear my heartbeat deep inside my ears, a swish-swoosh that sounded like windshield wipers. The city soaks up an entire valley, surrounded by dusty mountains that have waited for months for the dry season to end.
Cusco is a city made of stone, 11,000 feet above sea level. We arrived by plane yesterday and felt the altitude as soon as we stepped off. My chest tightened as if wrapped by a belt and I could hear my heartbeat deep inside my ears, a swish-swoosh that sounded like windshield wipers. The city soaks up an entire valley, surrounded by dusty mountains that have waited for months for the dry season to end.
Friday, November 3, 2017
Lima, Peru - the Buzz
Pre-Hike Clean Up
Seven bucks to get a full buzz. My friends have been bugging me for about a decade to do this. I have always resisted. Traveling for so long made me finally give in. It's so much easier not having to deal with hair.
Seven bucks to get a full buzz. My friends have been bugging me for about a decade to do this. I have always resisted. Traveling for so long made me finally give in. It's so much easier not having to deal with hair.
Thursday, November 2, 2017
Lima, Peru - Riding the Bus
Express
There is no subway in Lima, the next best thing is the express bus. It's set up like a train. The buses run on their own closed roads and you board them from a station.
There is no subway in Lima, the next best thing is the express bus. It's set up like a train. The buses run on their own closed roads and you board them from a station.
Lima, Peru - Immediate Comfort
Barranco Neighborhood
We're in Lima for a few days on our way to Cusco where we'll begin our hike to Macchu Picchu on Monday. I haven't been here for twenty years and the last time I came I don't remember where I stayed. Couldn't have been Barranco, the neighborhood we're in now. I fell in love with it immediately.
We're in Lima for a few days on our way to Cusco where we'll begin our hike to Macchu Picchu on Monday. I haven't been here for twenty years and the last time I came I don't remember where I stayed. Couldn't have been Barranco, the neighborhood we're in now. I fell in love with it immediately.
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