We took a bullet train into the mountains to a town close to Nagano. There, we met up with some close relatives.
We covered the 175 miles to Nagano in about 90 minutes and then switched to a smaller regional train to Yudanaka. We holed up in a traditional inn called a Ryokan, the kind where you sleep on a mat on the floor. We walked the town, which is known for two things: hot springs and snow monkeys. We ate hand-cut soba and practiced our improving Japanese.
The next morning we began a short 2 mile hike into the neighboring national park. It was nippier than expected, high 20s, with enough wind to make me think thoughts like "these damned snow monkeys better be there when I get there."
Our friend Kevin from Singapore was with us and I'm not sure he'd ever seen snow or been this cold in his life. Jean lent him one of her coats.
There was a fresh dusting of snow on the trees.
As we approached ground zero, we noticed a scrum forming near a bridge over the river.
I began to curse and swear because it appeared there were only humans.
Then, they popped out. Like us, they don't stay in the hot water too long, just enough to get warm. They walk right by you, don't even seem to care that you are around. When they look you in the eyes, it's like you're not there.
They then find the nearest sunny spot and lounge around, drying off.
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