We went over the Andes by hopping lakes, which was not exactly what I expected. The pros: natural beauty. The cons: four buses and three boats.
Thursday, November 30, 2017
San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina - Lake Hopping
From Chile to Argentina
We went over the Andes by hopping lakes, which was not exactly what I expected. The pros: natural beauty. The cons: four buses and three boats.
We went over the Andes by hopping lakes, which was not exactly what I expected. The pros: natural beauty. The cons: four buses and three boats.
Puerto Varas, Chile - Deeper into the Rhineland
Further South
We're another three hundred miles further south in Patagonia and the German influence is increasing. We took a cab from the bus station to our AirBnB and the cabbie was listening to polka music. When his cell phone rang, the ringer was more polka music. You cannot make this stuff up.
We're another three hundred miles further south in Patagonia and the German influence is increasing. We took a cab from the bus station to our AirBnB and the cabbie was listening to polka music. When his cell phone rang, the ringer was more polka music. You cannot make this stuff up.
Monday, November 27, 2017
Villarrica, Chile - Stepping on a Volcano
Fighting the Mind
It's said that during times of extreme exhaustion, the body rules the mind. Even with 8 hours of restful sleep, my body has my mind on a leash. I hear the alarm at 5am and my first thought is 'she might just say forget it.' This leads to my next thought 'I cannot get my money back whether I climb it or not. I could just keep sleeping.'
It's said that during times of extreme exhaustion, the body rules the mind. Even with 8 hours of restful sleep, my body has my mind on a leash. I hear the alarm at 5am and my first thought is 'she might just say forget it.' This leads to my next thought 'I cannot get my money back whether I climb it or not. I could just keep sleeping.'
Saturday, November 25, 2017
Villarrica, Chile - Setting our Sights
The Villarrica Volcano
There are thousands of volcanoes in Chile but very few are active. The exception is the Villarrica volcano, it sits just west of town. It's conical like Mt Fuji but has a plume of smoke coming out of the top. There is an active lava pool in the crater, you can climb it and see for yourself if you're crazy enough. We signed up, it turns out we're a bit crazy.
There are thousands of volcanoes in Chile but very few are active. The exception is the Villarrica volcano, it sits just west of town. It's conical like Mt Fuji but has a plume of smoke coming out of the top. There is an active lava pool in the crater, you can climb it and see for yourself if you're crazy enough. We signed up, it turns out we're a bit crazy.
Friday, November 24, 2017
Villarrica, Chile - Patagonia
Waking up in Germany
An overnight bus from Santiago can transport you to places far away. When I awoke at 7am the dusty plains were long gone. We looked to be in upstate New York or New England. Nothing but rolling farmland, pastures, apple groves. Then I looked more closely at the houses, they sparked something familiar. It suddenly felt like we were in Germany or Austria.
An overnight bus from Santiago can transport you to places far away. When I awoke at 7am the dusty plains were long gone. We looked to be in upstate New York or New England. Nothing but rolling farmland, pastures, apple groves. Then I looked more closely at the houses, they sparked something familiar. It suddenly felt like we were in Germany or Austria.
Thursday, November 23, 2017
Santiago, Chile - Walking
Shade
Santiago is in the grip of spring, soon to be summer. It's hot in the afternoon, close to 90. Under the trees it's fifteen degrees cooler and in Santiago you can walk miles under the trees. It's such a green, shaded city.
Santiago is in the grip of spring, soon to be summer. It's hot in the afternoon, close to 90. Under the trees it's fifteen degrees cooler and in Santiago you can walk miles under the trees. It's such a green, shaded city.
Santiago, Chile - Odds and Ends
Vibrancy
Santiago is lively. People are out on the street at all times of day, talking, selling, walking, eating. Their central market is gigantic and sells everything you can imagine. This stand was selling relishes and pickles by the barrel.
Santiago is lively. People are out on the street at all times of day, talking, selling, walking, eating. Their central market is gigantic and sells everything you can imagine. This stand was selling relishes and pickles by the barrel.
Wednesday, November 22, 2017
Santiago, Chile - La Chascona
Pablo Neruda's Santiago House
We stayed a block away from one of Pablo Neruda's houses, Chascona, in the foothills of the Bellavista neighborhood. Rather than a single house, it's three small houses connected by footpaths. I didn't expect much, what would a poet's house tell me about the poet?
We stayed a block away from one of Pablo Neruda's houses, Chascona, in the foothills of the Bellavista neighborhood. Rather than a single house, it's three small houses connected by footpaths. I didn't expect much, what would a poet's house tell me about the poet?
Santiago, Chile - First Impressions
What I Love About Santiago
Street Art
It's everywhere you look, on the sides of buildings, on billboards, in the subway stations. Colorful, creative, fun to look at.
Street Art
It's everywhere you look, on the sides of buildings, on billboards, in the subway stations. Colorful, creative, fun to look at.
Tuesday, November 21, 2017
Calama, Chile - The Lawyer & the Bus Driver
Unnecessary Stress
"An hour is more than enough time to check in at the local airport, it's very small" he said, handing us the tickets. "I need an exact address so the bus knows where to pick you up." We agreed on a small restaurant and he told us to be there by 4:30pm. I liked his math. Our flight was at 8:10pm and the airport was 60 miles north of San Pedro in a small city named Calama. We'd arrive around 5:30 and have plenty of time to check in, eat dinner and board the flight to Santiago. We got to the restaurant early, sat at a small table near the road, ordered a drink and waited. Buses of all sizes and shapes slowed near the restaurant but didn't stop. At 4:30 Dodo went outside and looked up and down the street. At 4:45 I decided to wait outside under the shade of a tree. At 5:00pm I tried to call the bus company but got no answer. Fifteen minutes later a taxi driver came by, rolled down his window "Aeropuerto?' Yes, how much? I asked. The amount was so high I waved him off in disgust. We discussed our options: stay and pray, walk to the tour operator, try to find another van. I suggested that I'd stay and wait while Dodo went to the van operator's office. "But I don't speak Spanish, what do I say?"
"An hour is more than enough time to check in at the local airport, it's very small" he said, handing us the tickets. "I need an exact address so the bus knows where to pick you up." We agreed on a small restaurant and he told us to be there by 4:30pm. I liked his math. Our flight was at 8:10pm and the airport was 60 miles north of San Pedro in a small city named Calama. We'd arrive around 5:30 and have plenty of time to check in, eat dinner and board the flight to Santiago. We got to the restaurant early, sat at a small table near the road, ordered a drink and waited. Buses of all sizes and shapes slowed near the restaurant but didn't stop. At 4:30 Dodo went outside and looked up and down the street. At 4:45 I decided to wait outside under the shade of a tree. At 5:00pm I tried to call the bus company but got no answer. Fifteen minutes later a taxi driver came by, rolled down his window "Aeropuerto?' Yes, how much? I asked. The amount was so high I waved him off in disgust. We discussed our options: stay and pray, walk to the tour operator, try to find another van. I suggested that I'd stay and wait while Dodo went to the van operator's office. "But I don't speak Spanish, what do I say?"
Monday, November 20, 2017
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile - Re-Entry into the Machine
A Shift in Worlds
We sped downhill on smooth blacktop towards San Pedro. Within 45 minutes of leaving Bolivia, we'd descended 5,000 feet and gone from 30 degrees to 75. It's so much warmer here that even immigration won't set up at the border - our minivan drove us directly to the inspection point at the edge of town. We got off, filled in some forms, got our luggage x-rayed, passports stamped and got back in the minivan for a five minute drive into the center of town.
We sped downhill on smooth blacktop towards San Pedro. Within 45 minutes of leaving Bolivia, we'd descended 5,000 feet and gone from 30 degrees to 75. It's so much warmer here that even immigration won't set up at the border - our minivan drove us directly to the inspection point at the edge of town. We got off, filled in some forms, got our luggage x-rayed, passports stamped and got back in the minivan for a five minute drive into the center of town.
Sunday, November 19, 2017
Uyuni, Bolivia - Final Day
Early Day
I slept from 8pm to midnight until awakened by the sound of someone vomiting violently. Our room was at the end of the hall near the toilets. I slept off and on from there as the vomiting continued for hours. I imagined that a whole group of people were sick but later learned it was just one poor soul. We got up at 4am, had a quick breakfast and were on our way to the geysers.
I slept from 8pm to midnight until awakened by the sound of someone vomiting violently. Our room was at the end of the hall near the toilets. I slept off and on from there as the vomiting continued for hours. I imagined that a whole group of people were sick but later learned it was just one poor soul. We got up at 4am, had a quick breakfast and were on our way to the geysers.
Uyuni, Bolivia - Lagoons
Islands of Life
Once you leave the salt flat and climb into the high desert, you begin to see lagoons. The first was so colorful that I ripped off my sunglasses to look. A swirling white cloud passed over and Karine asked our tour guide Eddie about it. "Salt cloud?" "Nope" he replied. "Borax."
Once you leave the salt flat and climb into the high desert, you begin to see lagoons. The first was so colorful that I ripped off my sunglasses to look. A swirling white cloud passed over and Karine asked our tour guide Eddie about it. "Salt cloud?" "Nope" he replied. "Borax."
Saturday, November 18, 2017
Uyuni, Bolivia - Deserts
Cold and Dust
I am dressed in every layer I have but I've not felt this cold in decades. It's the wind, forty and fifty miles an hour with no let up. The cold gets me in the ankles, the weak point of my gear - I'm wearing sneakers and short athletic socks. Everyone else has hiking boots and long wool socks. When we pull over to take photos, I am slow to get out of the truck, sometimes opting to outsource the photo taking to the Dodo.
I am dressed in every layer I have but I've not felt this cold in decades. It's the wind, forty and fifty miles an hour with no let up. The cold gets me in the ankles, the weak point of my gear - I'm wearing sneakers and short athletic socks. Everyone else has hiking boots and long wool socks. When we pull over to take photos, I am slow to get out of the truck, sometimes opting to outsource the photo taking to the Dodo.
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