This was a very interesting trip made 100 times more valuable by having a local guide to take us to places we never would've gone to.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Taiwan - Goodbye
Streetscapes and Random Final Thoughts
This was a very interesting trip made 100 times more valuable by having a local guide to take us to places we never would've gone to.
This was a very interesting trip made 100 times more valuable by having a local guide to take us to places we never would've gone to.
Taiwan - the Joys of Hair Washing
So Cheap Too
What makes certain things more or less expensive in one place compared to another? I don't get it sometimes. Take hair-washing, for example. In Taipei, a busting metropolis, you can get a good wash for about $6. Not any old wash and dry, you get a nice 15 minute neck rub, a cup of tea and a scalp scratch to go along with it. It's what you'd pay for a lukewarm, watered-down latte in Singapore and don't even think of getting your hair washed cheaply in Singapore.
What makes certain things more or less expensive in one place compared to another? I don't get it sometimes. Take hair-washing, for example. In Taipei, a busting metropolis, you can get a good wash for about $6. Not any old wash and dry, you get a nice 15 minute neck rub, a cup of tea and a scalp scratch to go along with it. It's what you'd pay for a lukewarm, watered-down latte in Singapore and don't even think of getting your hair washed cheaply in Singapore.
Taiwan - Subway Similarities
and Differences...
We took the subway a few times in Taipei, once to go shopping for my CNY-required new outfit (you're supposed to wear new clothes on the first day of CNY.) The Taipei subway was similar to those I've tried in other Asian cities. Some of the tracks were below ground and others above, usually down the middle of a wide avenue.
We took the subway a few times in Taipei, once to go shopping for my CNY-required new outfit (you're supposed to wear new clothes on the first day of CNY.) The Taipei subway was similar to those I've tried in other Asian cities. Some of the tracks were below ground and others above, usually down the middle of a wide avenue.
Taiwan - Meanwhile, Back in Taipei....
CNY Prep
Chinese New Year is not like the simpler Western version. It lasts over two weeks and it's a dizzying, calendar-filled series of meals, gift giving, snack-eating, gambling, house visiting and lack of sleep. In Taiwan, Dodo did some prep in a flower market which was set up underneath a highway, of all places.
Chinese New Year is not like the simpler Western version. It lasts over two weeks and it's a dizzying, calendar-filled series of meals, gift giving, snack-eating, gambling, house visiting and lack of sleep. In Taiwan, Dodo did some prep in a flower market which was set up underneath a highway, of all places.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Taiwan - Visiting
Continuing our Japanese Theme
Jennifer reminded me a bit of Jennifer Horgan, she knows a lot of people and they all seem happy to see her. She spends a lot of time in Hualien and knows a lot of B&B owners. She took us to a B&B in town to visit the owners, who rolled out the red carpet for us. One of the owners is a retired chef from Taipei - his specialty - Japanese food. The place was decorated in a Japanese style - all the way into the kitchen where we got to pick our own coffee cup, a tradition I was first introduced to in Kamakura, Japan.
Jennifer reminded me a bit of Jennifer Horgan, she knows a lot of people and they all seem happy to see her. She spends a lot of time in Hualien and knows a lot of B&B owners. She took us to a B&B in town to visit the owners, who rolled out the red carpet for us. One of the owners is a retired chef from Taipei - his specialty - Japanese food. The place was decorated in a Japanese style - all the way into the kitchen where we got to pick our own coffee cup, a tradition I was first introduced to in Kamakura, Japan.
Taiwan - Morisaka Settlement
It's the Timber, duh!
The Japanese were keen to take over Taiwain in 1895. When you're in the Taiwanese countryside it's pretty clear why. First, crop land. Second, timber. The Morisaka settlement was built in 1939 by the Japanese at the edge of a large Cypress forest. They cut down trees inland, floated the stripped trunks downriver and then processed them here, loading them onto railroad cars to be brought to waiting ships.
The Japanese were keen to take over Taiwain in 1895. When you're in the Taiwanese countryside it's pretty clear why. First, crop land. Second, timber. The Morisaka settlement was built in 1939 by the Japanese at the edge of a large Cypress forest. They cut down trees inland, floated the stripped trunks downriver and then processed them here, loading them onto railroad cars to be brought to waiting ships.
Taiwan - Shin Liu Farm
Water Farming, I Think?
After and hour drive south in the East Rift Valley we stopped at Shin Liu Farm. Jennifer described it as a "water farm" where they tended "water vegetables" - specifically native species of water vegetables. I really had no idea what that meant and it didn't help that none of the signs were in English.
After and hour drive south in the East Rift Valley we stopped at Shin Liu Farm. Jennifer described it as a "water farm" where they tended "water vegetables" - specifically native species of water vegetables. I really had no idea what that meant and it didn't help that none of the signs were in English.
Taiwan - the Road to Fonglin
The "Rice Box" of Eastern Taiwan
The fertile valley south of Hualien, which runs between a coastal mountain range and a larger inland range for a hundred miles, supplies much of the rice and many of the vegetables eaten in eastern Taiwan. We were headed to a farm in a small town called Fonglin but were treated to plenty of beauty along the way. This field of "you cai hua" translates to mustard greens, I believe.
The fertile valley south of Hualien, which runs between a coastal mountain range and a larger inland range for a hundred miles, supplies much of the rice and many of the vegetables eaten in eastern Taiwan. We were headed to a farm in a small town called Fonglin but were treated to plenty of beauty along the way. This field of "you cai hua" translates to mustard greens, I believe.
Monday, January 24, 2011
Taiwan - the Home Stay
What IS a Home Stay?
Turns out, it's what we would call a Bed and Breakfast. Ours was inland a few kliks, pressed up against the foot of the mountains.
Turns out, it's what we would call a Bed and Breakfast. Ours was inland a few kliks, pressed up against the foot of the mountains.
Taiwan - Taroko National Park
Part II - The Interior
After an hour at the beach, we headed inland to the interior of the park. Jennifer explained that the Taiwanese Gov't. brought in the Americans for advice on building the road we were driving on inside the park. The response - cannot be done - too dangerous for heavy equipment. So what did the Taiwanese do? They built it by hand, one foot at a time. This includes digging out the tunnels that you see in this photo. The view was spectacular. The river, on the other had, spent eons carving out a valley amongst the granite peaks.
After an hour at the beach, we headed inland to the interior of the park. Jennifer explained that the Taiwanese Gov't. brought in the Americans for advice on building the road we were driving on inside the park. The response - cannot be done - too dangerous for heavy equipment. So what did the Taiwanese do? They built it by hand, one foot at a time. This includes digging out the tunnels that you see in this photo. The view was spectacular. The river, on the other had, spent eons carving out a valley amongst the granite peaks.
Taiwan - Arrival in Hualien
Greeted by the Man Himself
Just outside the train station was a statue of Chiang Kai-Sheck, staring out to sea with a hand in his pocket. This was the first time I saw his likeness in Taiwan and I wasn't sure what it meant. Was Hualien more forgiving? More patriotoic? Jennifer told me that he was either a hero or a villain depending upon whom you asked. She didn't give me an indication of her personal feelings and I didn't push. One thing I'm learning about Asia is people will tell you what they want you to know and it's not much.
Just outside the train station was a statue of Chiang Kai-Sheck, staring out to sea with a hand in his pocket. This was the first time I saw his likeness in Taiwan and I wasn't sure what it meant. Was Hualien more forgiving? More patriotoic? Jennifer told me that he was either a hero or a villain depending upon whom you asked. She didn't give me an indication of her personal feelings and I didn't push. One thing I'm learning about Asia is people will tell you what they want you to know and it's not much.
Taiwan - Getting Out of the City
An Insider's Guide to Hualien
Jean's colleague from Taiwan, Jennifer, insisted on taking us around the island. She is passionate about her country and she explained that to experience Taiwan you must go to Hualien, a smaller city on the eastern coast. Just next door to Hualien is Taroko National Park, a 19,000 hectare expanse that stretches from the Philippine sea to snowy peaks inland. We set off early, catching a 7:20am train - the only symbols I recognized in the departure sign.
Jean's colleague from Taiwan, Jennifer, insisted on taking us around the island. She is passionate about her country and she explained that to experience Taiwan you must go to Hualien, a smaller city on the eastern coast. Just next door to Hualien is Taroko National Park, a 19,000 hectare expanse that stretches from the Philippine sea to snowy peaks inland. We set off early, catching a 7:20am train - the only symbols I recognized in the departure sign.
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Taiwan - Learning from Television
Notes on a Theme...
After flipping through the channels for 30 minutes I started to notice some patterns. One in particular popped out at me, excuse the phrase. It seemed that all the ladies were endowed in a certain way. I surmise that Taiwanese men are boob crazy.
After flipping through the channels for 30 minutes I started to notice some patterns. One in particular popped out at me, excuse the phrase. It seemed that all the ladies were endowed in a certain way. I surmise that Taiwanese men are boob crazy.
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Taiwan - the Early Signs
Two Things Stand Out Immediately
First, there is very little obvious English here. All the signs, menus, storefronts and billboards are in Chinese only. Second, this place is coffee-crazed - there are cafes every 200 feet. We sat in one, sipping our lattes and reading magazines (well, I looked at the pictures, she actually read.) I imagined Dodo thinking "now you must do exactly what I say, waahahahahahaha, you need me to translate!
First, there is very little obvious English here. All the signs, menus, storefronts and billboards are in Chinese only. Second, this place is coffee-crazed - there are cafes every 200 feet. We sat in one, sipping our lattes and reading magazines (well, I looked at the pictures, she actually read.) I imagined Dodo thinking "now you must do exactly what I say, waahahahahahaha, you need me to translate!
Taipei - Holding Out...
...for Higher Prices
Strangest sight I've ever seen. Smack in the middle of the downtown Taipei business district is an empty lot. The owner is waiting for a higher price and in the meantime, he's planted a garden.
Strangest sight I've ever seen. Smack in the middle of the downtown Taipei business district is an empty lot. The owner is waiting for a higher price and in the meantime, he's planted a garden.
Taipei - First Impressions
Hong Kong, We Got Good News for You
I blinked a few times as we drove from the airport to downtown. Everything looked blurry to me - must be the jetlag. No, I realized, everything really is shaded brown or grey - the buildings, the roads, the sky, the smog on the horizon. Taipei's buildings are Hong Kong-ugly without any of the surrounding natural beauty.
I blinked a few times as we drove from the airport to downtown. Everything looked blurry to me - must be the jetlag. No, I realized, everything really is shaded brown or grey - the buildings, the roads, the sky, the smog on the horizon. Taipei's buildings are Hong Kong-ugly without any of the surrounding natural beauty.
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Paris - Lucky Streak
Arriving Late has its Charms?
"Thanks goodness I checked in online" I thought to myself when my cab was 10 minutes late, then 15, then 30. By the time I got to the airport there was only an hour to spare. I practiced my French at the check-in counter and as usual didin't understand exactly what was being said. When they handed over my ticket I didn't have time to complain about the change of seat. What was printed on the ticket wasn't 11D - I'd memorized my checked-in seat to prevent exactly this type of nonsense. When I got on the plane, I realized what happened.....
"Thanks goodness I checked in online" I thought to myself when my cab was 10 minutes late, then 15, then 30. By the time I got to the airport there was only an hour to spare. I practiced my French at the check-in counter and as usual didin't understand exactly what was being said. When they handed over my ticket I didn't have time to complain about the change of seat. What was printed on the ticket wasn't 11D - I'd memorized my checked-in seat to prevent exactly this type of nonsense. When I got on the plane, I realized what happened.....
Paris - Parting Shots
The Flights are Lined Up...
I leave Paris tonight at midnight, land in Singapore at 6pm Friday, stay overnight, then jump a flight to Taipei at 8am Saturday. Dodo is already in Taipei, having attended a series of meetings there. On Monday and Tuesday we plan to head to a small town on the eastern shore named Hualien. On Wednesday evening, we head to Singapore to celebrate Chinese New Year. The camera is charged and ready.
I leave Paris tonight at midnight, land in Singapore at 6pm Friday, stay overnight, then jump a flight to Taipei at 8am Saturday. Dodo is already in Taipei, having attended a series of meetings there. On Monday and Tuesday we plan to head to a small town on the eastern shore named Hualien. On Wednesday evening, we head to Singapore to celebrate Chinese New Year. The camera is charged and ready.
Friday, January 7, 2011
Paris - Ugly Apartment
Real or Imagined?
I stood staring for quite a while before I made up my mind. Even after I discovered the truth, the effect is quite powerful. This is exhibit one for my simple thesis that everything nice about Paris was created a couple hundred years ago.
I stood staring for quite a while before I made up my mind. Even after I discovered the truth, the effect is quite powerful. This is exhibit one for my simple thesis that everything nice about Paris was created a couple hundred years ago.
Monday, January 3, 2011
Singapore - Bye for Now
Time to Head Back to Snow and Work
I head back to Paris tonight, arriving there Tue morning. I had some random shots from this trip to post, so here they are. This is a Sikh temple in Chinatown. I was trying out my new tripod for the first time when I took this shot and it didn't come out exactly as I'd hoped. The darks are too dark and the lights too light.
I head back to Paris tonight, arriving there Tue morning. I had some random shots from this trip to post, so here they are. This is a Sikh temple in Chinatown. I was trying out my new tripod for the first time when I took this shot and it didn't come out exactly as I'd hoped. The darks are too dark and the lights too light.
Saturday, January 1, 2011
Singapore - Fireworks Fail
Where Else? At MBS
The Marina Bay Sands ("MBS") has quickly reached iconic status here in Singapore. Almost all events are near it or include it as a backdrop - case in point: this year's fireworks. I went with Dodo and the girlfriends to a restaurant near the marina to eat, drink and bring in the new year in style. The view, as you can see, was pretty good. The marina was filled with 20,000 floating white "wishing balls" that appear purple in this shot.
The Marina Bay Sands ("MBS") has quickly reached iconic status here in Singapore. Almost all events are near it or include it as a backdrop - case in point: this year's fireworks. I went with Dodo and the girlfriends to a restaurant near the marina to eat, drink and bring in the new year in style. The view, as you can see, was pretty good. The marina was filled with 20,000 floating white "wishing balls" that appear purple in this shot.
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