Un Jour de Chinois

Or Rather, "A Chinese Day"
When I stepped out of my front door, I walked smack into a Chinese New Year's parade. I mean that literally, as in, I took one step out of my door and my foot got trampled on by someone in the parade. It was pretty impressive, the outfits were so colorful.

Firecrackers were popping like mad, creating a smoke that held up the parade a bit. Check out the cymbal player on the right - he turned away from the smoke and noise.

I swam the crowd upstream and watched as they rounded my corner.

They squeezed eastwards down my block.....

The crowd in tow....

and slowly disappeared...

only to reappear a few hours later, swollen and loud, bringing a halt to rue Beaubourg.

The colors were as deafening as the firecrackers, which in turn, clashed with the drums and cymbals for superiority. But this was only a warm up - my Chinese Saturday was just getting started.....

Strange as it sounds, I've not been able to find a French tutor in Paris. Finding one for Mandarin proved much easier. I met her in a cafe for my first lesson - she was very professional and organized. We spent two hours on the basics of phonetics and tone, which was not easy at all. Turns out, there are four tones in Mandarin - even, rising, falling and dipping. There are also endless sounds that my American mouth aren't used to making. My jaw is sore - I'm not kidding.

I have a lot of practice to do before my next class. Funny, two hours of Mandarin put some perspective into how easy French is by comparison. I am gonna redouble my efforts to find a French tutor.

Street Art - Redux

Can't Get Enough of It
I really love the street art here in Paris. I was walking to work yesterday in the pitch dark and noticed this on a wall along rue de Renard. I love the whimsicality: a skiing business man, tripping over some cats, briefcase flying.

This one was cool too. Fence bars wrapped with adhesive, which depending upon your angle.....

....become a fuller picture.

La Grève (the Strike)

Don't Believe the Hype
First of all, with regards the subway, the strike only affects certain lines and it's only a reduction in service, not a stoppage. I got up an hr early, dressed in jeans and sneakers, expecting the worst. I walked to the 1 line and to my surprise it was completely empty, the train arrived 2 minutes later, I got on and was at work in no time. I got to work about 7:15am. I imagine you'll see coverage on TV that looks quite different - packed subways, people on the streets, etc. Keep in mind that all that will have happened around 9am, I bet - the time when the whole country finally leaves their house for work in the morning.

Things Are Starting to Pop

Sometimes Stuff Works Out as Planned (Not)
I had a wish list for my Parisian life that is slowly coming to fruition. Obviously, I have my own place now, which makes me feel more like a local. Today, I was supposed to begin studying with a French tutor, but she flaked out and canceled. Oh well. At least she emailed me back - I have emailed no fewer than 6 tutors who were advertising their services and only one responded! Is there a recession or not?

Moving on, I was walking down my block recently when I noticed that an unmarked door that is usually closed, was wide open. I peeked inside and realized that it is some kind of MahJong parlor. Do I dare trying play Mahojng with a bunch of recent Chinese arrivals? I mean, hey, the French tutors don't want my money, may as well contribute to the émigrants chinois.

Prepping for Black Thursday

Why Fight It, I Ask Myself....
This Thursday is the first general strike in France since Sarkozy came to power. Seems like everyone is a bit pissed off about the credit crunch and worsening economy. Employment was never really good here and is getting worse. Most importantly, looks like my comrades who drive the trains will be striking, but nobody can tell me if that will affect all the metro lines and my regional train line.

I found a pretty good article about the strike here. I can tell you one thing: the rental bikes will be at a premium. I can imagine folks renting them the day before and keeping them at home. I will post more as I know more. Should be an "experience."

My New Digs

The Pied-A-Terre

After you enter through the door on the street, you are led into an interior coutyard. The apartment looks onto the courtyard, which is very quiet.

This is a shot from the livingroom window, looking out onto the same courtyard. The window faces south and is not blocked, which means a lot of light gets in, a rarity in this city.

The layout of the apartment is an L-shape. This is the view from just inside the front door. On the left is the kitchen and bathroom and the door on the right leads to the bedroom.

The kitchen is better than the one I have in NY. Everything you would need: fridge, stove, microwave, washing machine, coffee maker, tea kettle, pots/pans, cutlery and china.

Here is a look back at the front door. The couch pulls out into a bed.

A look at the couch from the kitchen. That window lets in a lot of southerly light, which is a life-saver for me.

Another view of the kitchen from the livingroom. The door on the right is the bathroom. It only contains the shower and sink. There is a separate, small room with a toilet just inside the front door.

The floor is made of wide wood planks that creak and groan underfoot. I wouldn't be surprised if these were original 17th century.

Here is a peek into the bedroom from the livingroom.

The bedroom has two windows that look out onto the courtyard as well. Not sure how comfortable the bed is, seems a tad stiff, but I will update you after I try it out tonight.

Sitting on the end of the bed, looking back into the livingroom. There is a small fireplace, but I doubt it is operational.

My New Hood

Moving on Up - Chinois Style
So, I rented an apartment, site unseen over the internet. It is only about 5 blocks north of my former hotel but is a totally different world. It is a mini-Chinatown, complete with Chinese restaurants, Chinese stores, Chinese markets, Chinese hair-washing spots and a Chinese tea room. The neighborhood is festooned with red lanterns to celebrate the Chinese New Year, which starts tomorrow. This is a shot looking east down my street - Rue au Maire.

Here is a shot from the other end of the block, looking west. My apartment is on the left, two buildings in. There are no cars allowed on the block, which makes it quiet - a real plus.

I took a walk around and stumbled into some of my neighbors doing Tai Chi in the local park. It was about 30 degrees out and these old biddies were doing their thing.


There is even a nearby store for Hatebean - Sainte Foy. No idea what they sell, Hatebean.

Click on this map to get an idea of how close the new hood is to the old hood.

Baby Pics

Get Ready to Ooooh and Ahhhhh
I went to Che's house to see lil Che. He is a real character, his name is Gavin and he proved to be a great photography subject. He posed tirelessly. I cannot say the same for Che.

Mommy's arms are so comfortable.

What is that shiny thing you keep pointing at me?

Laid back, mommy's friend seems to know what she is doing.

I gave his hair a bit of a tussle, to get a rough and ready shot.

The kid has a real mane of hair.

You gotta pay me for these photos, son.

The kinda-smile. He kept smiling AFTER I took the shot.

Uh-oh, what's that noise? Someone breaking in?

Ok, enough of this mess, I need to catch some Z's.

Back in the BK

Final Loop Closed
The around the world in 21 days trip has come to a close. Back in the BK. What a ride:

NY to Hong Kong
Hong Kong to Singapore
Singapore to Paris
Paris to New York

What is the first thing I did? Got a NY Times and an everything bagel with cream cheese! What a bargain - 3 bucks all in. I am going to enjoy my week here, then it is back to Paris on Saturday night.

Paris Imaginings

Gotta Fight the Rut
I am already getting into a boring rut in Paris of getting up early, going to work, going straight back to my hotel after work, rinse, repeat. I have to fight that urge. I should take advantage of my time here to learn some French. I have to get out there and explore. As I stare out of the window at work at a rare blue sky I feel invigorated. I imagine myself getting a French tutor, finding a local Mahjong game, making friends, playing poker at the famous Aviation Club on the Champs Elysees, eating wonderful meals and living a fuller Parisian life. I also imagine feeling tired after work today and going straight to my hotel. Really not much different than my NY life, I guess. I wonder which will win out.

Paris - Les Soldes

Semi-Annual Sales
After seeing "Soldes"signs in every store I finally asked someone for an explanation. So strange. The government regulates when stores can put their merchandise on sale. This happens twice a year - once in winter and once in summer. We are in the midst of the winter soldes now, which lasts about a month or so. The deals to be had are pretty good from speaking to folks here in Paris. Anywhere from 50-80% off. Me? I will just keep putting my money in the bank. The credit crunch is watching......

A Tale of Two Suns

An Unfinished Story

Once upon a time long ago, the sun had a child. Jealous of his progeny's brilliance, he banished the upstart to the darkness of the far east. The sun continued to lord over the great capitals of Europe, giving little thought to the orphan. As the years passed, the sun grew old and tired and struggled out of bed each morning to shine a few shallow rays. Europe began to freeze over.

Meanwhile, the orphan grew into a strong, blazing force. He worked hard each day, rising early, setting late, bringing tremendous light and warmth to Asia. He thought of his father every day, hoping for the praise that was never to come.

From the 1st to the 3rd World

Yep, I am Saying Paris is 3rd World
I flew from Singapore to Paris on Air France. My seat was broken, the stewardess had to kick it to fix it. After our 14 hr flight, we waited an additional 2 hrs for our luggage due to a "technical problem." It would have been more palatable to be told there was a baggage handler strike. No problem, when I finally arrived at the hotel I've been staying in for two months, they had no record of my reservation. None, zip, nada. Sure, I'll wait in the lounge for seven hours for a more expensive room to become available. There was one guy working the lounge, he glanced over at me lazily and never approached me to offer a menu or a coffee. It was so cold in the lounge, I could almost see my breath as I wasted time trying to connect to the broken wifi. I guess the Russia-Ukraine battle over gas supplies has rippled to the city of darkness.

Singapore - Day 14: Last Day

The Second Leg of the Round the World Trip
By the time you read this I will be in the air on my way to Paris. The prospect of a 65 degree temperature change and waking up alone every morning in the pitch dark is not something to look forward to. I had an excellent time in Singapore - Puff's family and friends treated me so nicely, practically falling over themselves to take me to eat, give me rides and buy me presents. It was a humbling experience - one that makes you appreciate what you have. Thanks Puffin!! This is the first of many more trips to Singapore, if I have anything to say about it.

Old Folks - Get to Work!
There is such a different attitude here towards the elders - more like it should be. Old folks are seen as wise and talented. Just the other day I read an article in the local paper about the government's efforts to dissuade people from retiring at 65. They instituted incentives for companies to retain older workers, to let them make up their own schedule, to make it easy for them to work into their late 60's and early 70's. I suspect it has something to do with easing the burden on the social system. This morning, in Puff's complex I saw a workout station. Only when I got close to it did I realize it was for the elderly.

There are many different stations to work different parts of the body. All the photos showed older folks doing the exercises.

There was a witty saying at each station, usually to do with aging. As you can see, at this station there are activities for carpal tunnel syndrome and arthritis in the hands. What's more, if you are old here you get tons of respect from the younger generation. They call you either "Auntie" or "Uncle" and you get first dibs on most things. Also, it never gets colder than about 75 degrees - not a bad place to grow old, I think.

Singapore - Days 12-13

Golfing in Indonesia
No, I didn't spend two days golfing, I simply got lazy updating the blog. Day 12 was rather uneventful: woke up late, bought a golf shirt, had dinner at Puff's Aunt's house and played some Mah Jong. The next day, the golf trip began. Indonesia is made up of thousands of islands, one is offshore from Singapore and can be reached by ferry in 30 minutes.